Seoul P4 and 1000mA buckpuck

[Strydur]

Ok guys.. I have had two people in the last two days report heating problems when using this setup. I went out today and pulled a P4 and a 1000mA buckpuck off the shelf mounted it to a copper heat sink and gave it 6v. I let it on for over a minute and the heat sink was hardly warm.

Who else is using a similar setup and have you noticed any issues? I am not sure if I want to blame the P4 or the buck puck.

[Darth Leximus]

I'm running this setup in 2 different sabers, one with plenty of space in the hilt and one with everything crammed as tight as possible. I've used them both for upwards of an hour of continous use and have never had any issues with heat in either one.

[JediKnightBJ]

Raises Hand.

I'm one of those two people. I'm not using a copper heatsink, I'm using an aluminum one.

I'm using a standard 1000ma buckpuck, 4xAA rechargable batteries (duracell 2650ma @ 1.2v each)

aluminum 1" diameter little more than 1/4" long heatsink (provided by ultrasabers)

Its gotten so hot that the soldier pads on the LED literally just melted and the LED module fell off. A friend of mine re-soldier it back on with some super high heat soldier, but we are still trying to find out why its soooo hot. I have four blistered fingers because of the heat on the aluminum heatsink. The LED was only on for about 30 seconds when I burnt my fingers. I have re-tried this with the new soldier. It doesn't melt the pvc, it only liquifies the super glue (gurelia (sp?) glue) that I used to hold everything together.

I'll post pictures when I get home of the new set up, that is still hot enough to fry an egg on the heat sink.

Not blaming anyone, just trying to figure out best course of action.

[LeMoel]

i am one of them also, and iam also using a aluminum heatsink from your store

[Jedi-Diah]

Well, copper does conduct heat much better than aluminum. But to make that much of a difference seems a little strange. For the LED to melt off the solder that held it to the star, the heat isn't transfering fast enough. Either the heatsink isn't sinking heat or the LED producing more heat than it should. But since the heatsink was also super hot, sounds like it was working ok but the LED was still producing way too much heat.

Is there any way either one of you can test your "hot" P4 with an MR board or something else in place of that buckpuck you have? Also, can you measure the P4 current or voltage while it's on?

i am one of them also, and iam also using a aluminum heatsink from your store

[JediKnightBJ]

Well, copper does conduct heat much better than aluminum. But to make that much of a difference seems a little strange. For the LED to melt off the solder that held it to the star, the heat isn't transfering fast enough. Either the heatsink isn't sinking heat or the LED producing more heat than it should. But since the heatsink was also super hot, sounds like it was working ok but the LED was still producing way too much heat.

Is there any way either one of you can test your "hot" P4 with an MR board or something else in place of that buckpuck you have? Also, can you measure the P4 current or voltage while it's on?

I have three separate buck pucks. I have tried the P4 on all three. Same results. The heatsink gets extremely hot.

[Lord Dottore Matto]

Copper heatsink, 1A pulsedriver, Seoul P4 almost 0 heat. (also had a 1A puck hooked up to it & on for 15 min to compare and no heat there either) The Crusader that I just posted uses this setup.

Link--->http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ead.php?t=6039

[Jedi-Diah]

Just thinking...

1. Heatsink works (absorbing heat and getting hot at least)
2. Buckpucks work (unlikely 3 would all be bad - plus one measured accurately - putting out 1000 mA)
3. LED might be bad.

How can we test if the P4 is acting crazy?

Anything else we're missing in this picture?

I have three separate buck pucks. I have tried the P4 on all three. Same results. The heatsink gets extremely hot.

[JasonEuc]

P4 white w/ 1A buckpuck. Copper heatsink mounted in MHS parts. 4xAAA pack from store.

No issues at all. I haven't run it for hours on end, but in playing around with my kids (20-min, 30-min or so) it's been just fine.

[Angelus Lupus]

I may be stating the obvious here, but has anyone else noticed the issue only seems to affect those using the aluminium heatsinks and not the copper ones?