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Thread: Seoul P4 and 1000mA buckpuck

  1. #41
    Council Member Novastar's Avatar
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    It's probably just a bad LED as people are saying. Remember: if the LED somehow shorts, it might basically "bridge the gap" between positive and negative which would be somewhat akin to taking your battery leads and touching them together for 30 seconds. Yowch!!!
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  2. #42

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    i have a question, say i end up using a resistor for my p4 and i hook it up to my ultrasound board, will the sound board act something like a buckpuck and cause it to over heat ? or will the resistor protect it?????

  3. #43

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    The Ultrasound is basically a "buckpuck" and soundboard (plus other stuff). You don't need a resistor. You can put in up to 11V and it will still only give the LED what you set it at (700mA-1500mA).

    Just try not to use the P4 if it gets super hot under normal conditions. That might not be the best thing for it.



    Quote Originally Posted by LeMoel View Post
    i have a question, say i end up using a resistor for my p4 and i hook it up to my ultrasound board, will the sound board act something like a buckpuck and cause it to over heat ? or will the resistor protect it?????

  4. #44

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    thanks i needed that answered..

    I was just testing my seoul p4 and it seems to be fine with 700 ma. but of course we all want to max it

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by JediKnightBJ View Post
    Will it matter that the one I have melted off the and I had to soldier it back, its not a very pretty soldier job.
    Why not just try your set up with another LED and see if the problem persists? If it does not then it is the LED, if it does then it is something else. (process of elimination my man!)
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  6. #46

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lord Dottore Matto View Post
    Why not just try your set up with another LED and see if the problem persists? If it does not then it is the LED, if it does then it is something else. (process of elimination my man!)
    I have. I tried the same set up with a lux III Cyan (bin 1), and Lux III blue, and I just got the lux 3 White I'm going to try it this morning some time. All of the tests so far, the heatsink gets warm, but not hot.

  7. #47

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    I have recently worked on the gearbox of an airsoft gun for my friend and I know that this is a bit different but have you checked to see if it is grounding out? My friend melted his wiring, battery and gun because the positive wiring was grounding out to the negative wiring through the gearbox casing which is aluminum and it only took about a minute to heat up enough to be dangerous.

    Again this may have been obvious and you may have already checked for that but just an observation.
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  8. #48

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    I just got a P4 from Tim. I hooked it up to a known good 1000ma buck puck and it lasted about 3 minutes before it blew. I had it attached to a copper heatsink inside of a blade holder and it was working fine. I even had the LED attached to the heatsink with thermal transfer tape. The surface felt a little warm but nothing out of the ordinary…..then “POP”

    I checked it with my Fluke 88…. DOA.

  9. #49

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    i wired one up usin the 100 puck in the wifes saber i built her, and so far works like a charm, no problems, had it on several times for a couple minutes or longer, not even warm.



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  10. #50

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    Apparently Tim said he may not be restocking the P4 anymore because of all the problems I was so looking forward to trying one.
    But What if I'm a figment of my own Imagination?!


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