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Thread: Calling All Cram-Fu Gurus

  1. #1

    Default Calling All Cram-Fu Gurus

    I'm playing around with some layout concepts. I'm using cheap materials that match the dimensions listed here, the store and the MHS Builder to build and play with real pieces like Tetris. What I would like to do is keep the overall length of my hilt as short as possible. It will have sound and I plan on a 7.4v power pack. Has anyone had any luck getting the battery to fit "under" the switch to "save" length? Any words of wisdom from the Masters on different configurations to maximize the cram?

    MTFBWY

  2. #2
    Sith Warrior darth_chasm's Avatar
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    What kind of switch? Easiest would be tactile switches with a switch ring. Another option is a short style AV switch with maybe a bezel.

  3. #3

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    I was possibly thinking AV Box 14 with 16mm short AVs. The recharge port and RICE port seem to be about 1 inch long which might make things difficult. I was also toying with 16mm short AVs with a sanded down bezel (store says the short won't thread with a bezel, but I think it might if I sand the flat area down to a thickness near a clocking washer or so). I would want an aux switch for sound effects and I'm playing around with (both 16mm AV short for now) mounting the main power at the "12 o'clock" position and the aux at the "10 o'clock" position immediately behind (towards the rear of the saber). Basically, I'm trying to explore different possibilities.

  4. #4

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    A short AV switch in an activation box will definitely fit over a 14500 cell in a standard MHS part. I don't think it will fit over an 18650 though.

  5. #5

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    If you really want to save space, you could use a soundboard that allows for a single-cell solution. Once you've dropped from a 7.4v pack down to a 3.7v pack, you'll find a lot of internal real estate has opened up.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

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  6. #6

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    I'm planning for a CF 7.5 and I could bridge the circuit for 3.7v operation. I'm also planning on using a Cree XML - RGBW, so I'm not sure how that would play out with a 3.7v solution.

  7. #7

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    Have you looked at using a side-by-side 14500 or 14650 battery pack? Those won't give you as much runtime, but will fit in 2 and 2.6 inch spaces respectively and can have the board mounted on top of them.

  8. #8

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    If you plan on color mixing
    Are you taking in to account the color xtender board?
    Look on pg 40 of the CF users manual

    using the double tactile switch holder you could fit (if you are careful) the power extender board double taped on to the battery behind the switches.

  9. #9

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    Yup, I am planning on using the CEx. I've been looking at a 3D printed chassis for both boards and an 18650 battery. Or, I may end up building my own chassis. Using dowels for reference, I can't get 2 18650's to fit side by side. I haven't gotten a 14 size dowel to check that yet. Seems like a big trade-off in mAh for space.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Stormtrooper View Post
    Yup, I am planning on using the CEx. I've been looking at a 3D printed chassis for both boards and an 18650 battery. Or, I may end up building my own chassis. Using dowels for reference, I can't get 2 18650's to fit side by side. I haven't gotten a 14 size dowel to check that yet. Seems like a big trade-off in mAh for space.
    14xxx side by side packs fit fine within the standard ID of MHS hilts.
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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