I am starting to think that I am either the luckiest duck in the pond or a complete idiot cause I have read all these horror stories of smoked boards and I have never had a problem so far. I am wondering if it is something that we can figure out so there are not so many burnt boards.
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Well, I'd say industrial heatshrink... I need some because with the exception of my Qui-gon board (an older one) they all fried because wires/connections touched that weren't supposed to.
Due that I think I'm going to get some huge heatshrink for the board and invest in finding some good connectors instead of bare wire. That way first thing I do is to solder on the connectors and not have to worry about the whatever wire touching another wire when I'm not paying close attention and getting the magic smoke.[!]
<center>Read the FAQ or x-wing won't be happy.
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Good ideas there xwing. I admit that with the amount of electrical tape and bubble wrap that I have that tends to be what I use but I bet the heatshrink would be a nice clean way of getting it done.
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Well, Ive learned my lesson. I think next time, rather than leave everything flapping about I'm just going to whack a bit of chip-packaging foam either side of the board and tape that rascal up to form a protective package. That way I don't risk losing the wire at the solder point on the PCB (which appears to have been applied in a factory by a sub-literate, mitten wearing baboon with a nasty caffeine habit).
I figure its got to be safer cutting wires midway to splice them and then, as wisely pointed out, heat shrinking them up. I will now be staying as far away as possible from the arcane mysteries of the chip, and thats a fact.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Asher
...which appears to have been applied in a factory by a sub-literate, mitten wearing baboon with a nasty caffeine habit
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In reality it is much worse then that as they are done by folks that make hardly any money at all and have to get as many done in a day as possible so therefore they really don't give a snitz about the quality.
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Have you tryed bypassing the fuse?
That is, from my limited experience, what usualy goes first on the Hasbros.
Just take a jumper wire and connect it to each side of the fuse on the C/B (that silver tube thing with paper in the middle) and if it works, then that's the problem. (just solder the jumper wire on to it. That's what I had to do with mine. Fuses are over rated anyways![]
If not, check your other connections. You may have a wire in the wrong spot, or a bad solder joint.
Have you read your Thread Index today?
FAQ
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">
In reality it is much worse then that as they are done by folks that make hardly any money at all and have to get as many done in a day as possible so therefore they really don't give a snitz about the quality.
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Fair one. I've just been ranting about this very thing on another website. I consider duff toy lightsabers a fair penalty for my rampant consumerism [V]
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> Have you tried bypassing the fuse? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Right. The fuse. The silver thing is a fuse. I knew that. [:I]
You may just have made my day. . .
To follow up on an old thread... I just dismantled my anakin color changer, which for the record does not have clash on flash - only sounds, which are: power up, power down, idle hum, and clash (2 of them, if I recall). No swinging sounds.
The wires going to from the primary board to the the LED/clash sensor board are:
white wire goes to the red LED's
yellow wire goes to blue LED's
red wire is ground
Blue and black go to the clash sensor which was easily removed via a de-soldering iron.
I'm actually considering reusing this little LED board either in a pommel or in a neck piece somehow.. I haven't decided yet, but I might make it alternate red/blue or light 'em all up for a purple with the help of a diffuser of some sort.
At this point I'm still piecing together my first sink tube hilt and dismantling hasbro and a MR SW-616 construction set to gather spare parts and get some ideas while I put together my wish list in TCSS.
oo... guts...
firebird, how the smeg did you get the thing open?
i'm guessing the secret lies in the shroud, mebbe in the clippy thing that sticks outta the back?
the shroud bit seems to be the only bit that isn't part of the two halves that split lengthways...
or did you just break it open?
I have only broken open the hasbros so far, never had the patience to be delicate aside from with the board itself.
"Run when you have to, fight when you must, rest when you can."
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