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Thread: New to the MHS builder, any suggestion on building?

  1. #1

    Default New to the MHS builder, any suggestion on building?

    Hey, i'm new to the MHS system and Custom Saber shop. I'm not exactly sure what the stipulations are when building a custom saber here; such as assembly, electronics etc. I've been reading through some of the tutorials and other notes on the forums on composing a complete saber. I'm primarily interested constructing an EL blade Saber with sound.

    I've been using the SaberBuilder tool for visual design. (Attached picture)
    I'd like to stay fairly close to this final design if possible. Unfortunately the tool doesn't seem to be giving a pricing during the time i was building the saber, so I can't be sure on the exact cost as it is at the moment.
    Here is the list of parts i used, as the tool specified. If you see any parts missing, or incorrectly used please let me know. I'd like to make sure i can build this saber once completed.

    1. TCSS: AngelusLupus Custom BH-4bt
    2. TCSS: Hilt 3_bb
    3. TCSS: 1/2 in. ChokePoint_be
    4. TCSS: RIBBED Extension
    5. TCSS: Double Male Threaded Connector
    6.TCSS: 30 2in. Sink Tube Style 1 (is the choke also the same as the sink tube?)
    7. TCSS: Pommel_4
    8. TCSS: Guarded Switch - Red
    9. TCSS: Thumbscrew 1
    10. TCSS Covertech Black - Side

    I would like the ability to easily change blades with this saber as well. I read that it's wise to put a quick disconnect in the hilt in order to easily access the blade electronics, remove the blade, and replace with a different one, in under a minute or so.

    Any suggestions, tips or comments would help greatly. Again, i'm new to TCSS, and still unsure of many things in the process, so any input will help understand other forum topics as well as tutorials. From what i understand all pieces are shipped and the saber is self assembled once received. Or is there also a service package in the store that includes assembly?

    Many Thanks!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    xwingband's Avatar
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    Default

    Well...

    -The blade holder is custom in case you didn't know that. You're going to have to e-mail Tim (the owner) for getting the quote on that.
    -All the black is going to need to be added as a service. Since there are parts that are taken off it will need to have a service fee for that as well.
    -A simple sinktube on your order won't do it...
    *****A) because the powdercoating to make the black is thick. It won't slide over it.
    *****B) They're uncut. I don't know Tim's policy on that, but you may have to see about getting a shroud from some other metal tube cut anyway.
    -The bottom is incorrect... your threading for the ribbed section is backwards.
    -It normally does not come assembled to my knowledge. I've never requested that... It's quite doable though. If you pay for Tim to tap the holes you need then it's just screwing parts together.
    RED LEADER Standing by!

  3. #3

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    I wouldn't bae my list off of what is on the builder with the exception of the stock parts. The builder is just a reference for the parts you buy in the store and some of the custom parts other people have ordered.

  4. #4

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    Yes, i did see that quite a few of the pieces used on this saber are custom. I have no doubt i'll be doing more research. Thanks for the heads up on the ribbed sections as well as the sinktube info. like i mentioned, any corrections you have would be great, because i've never built a saber before. Also if you have any suggestions on what to add/remove for quality, and ease of revising the saber, i'd greatly appreciate your opinions and experience.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Winter Moonshadow View Post
    I wouldn't bae my list off of what is on the builder with the exception of the stock parts. The builder is just a reference for the parts you buy in the store and some of the custom parts other people have ordered.
    hence those parts are in the CUSTOM PARTS section..

    but what does that mean? doesnt mean you cant get an IDEA of a part and have Tim (or whomever) make it for you..


    Deus ex Machina-
    as far as the pricing.. well it just never got implemented.. and I dont see it in the near future, unless I get bored or something.. but I dont see any point in it really.. there are parts available in the SaberBuilder app that arent even from TCSS (clamps, custom parts, parts made from others besides TCSS..etc)

    as well as parts that need custom work such as powder coating..etc which is an extra charge.. or machining before/after powder coating.. which is also an extra charge.

  6. #6
    Jedi Initiate annon's Avatar
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    once you flip the ribbed section you won't need the double male adapter.
    your thumb screw is in the wrong place, it needs to be on the blade holder (probably in the thick part for strength)
    If you get Tim to tap the holes for the thumb screw and belt clip button, putting it together is as easy as screwing the lid on to a jar of pickles.
    But if you're worried about wither you can put it together or not the sink tube shroud might not be a good idea for your first build.
    You also might find 16 in. to be a little long. Most people like their saber to be 10 to 13 in. (if you want a really long saber, just ignore me and go for it ) The trick I use is to take a piece of news paper, measure out the length of your saber, roll it up, then you have a real world idea about how big its going to be.

  7. #7
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    Why would you go with EL?

  8. #8

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    xl97- I did notice that it had an N/A icon in the price section, so i wasn't too sure on if it actually functioned. No worries there, browsing through the store gives more than enough to compile pricing for most pieces. I'll have to ask Tim about powder coating once this bad boy is complete.

    annon- My thanks for pointing that out. I hadn't originally seen the male/female ends on some of those pieces, but with some searching and further use of the Saberbuilder i was able to modify my design a bit. I've also shortened it a bit, removing a piece or two that is more or less non functioning, and the newspaper roll did give a better idea of something with a physical lenght. As far as the covers or shroud, i've been thinking it might be little tricky installing those, i might hold off on them, but I really do like the look. I'll cross that bridge when i come to it.

    I'd like to make it an EL blade for a few reasons, but primarily:
    Duelability
    Blade removal/quality
    Thickness (or thinness)

    From what I understand, EL blades are of the best quality for dueling purposes, and won't get and "dead" spots in the blade like i've seen with other LED blades. Some have said that the EL blade isn't as bright as some of the LEDs, but overall brightness isn't as important on my list as duelability. I also prefer the 3/4" thickness of blade. To me, I think the blade size is perfect. I have read that there are upsides to both, as well as the LED/EL combo blade. I'm not sure what most prefer, but anyone has any input, i'm glad to hear it.


    Electronics:

    Hilt:
    the internal electronics, speakers, battery housing, wiring etc. can all be found on the site, and seems fairly straight forward to install, unless working on something a little less spacious, and a little more elegant. What i get a little confused on here is the sound board. Am i correct that for sound, you need a working soundboard, as well as a speaker assembly for this to work properly? I was thinking i would use the same soundboard from the Master Replicas style sabers, but i'm not sure on how that would all go together, or if there are better quality soundboards that anyone might prefer, or advise on.
    Blade: The EL style blade is pretty straight forward as well. The 1/4" jack needs to fit into the hilt and connect with the matching plug on the inside connected to the rest of the electronics. Is this all there is to the EL blade electronics installation, or am I missing quite a bit?

    Thanks again

  9. #9

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    I think you are cofusing LED blades with LED Strings blades... with an LED your just shining LIGHT up a tube.. which would be the best for dueling I believe...

  10. #10

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    I'm no pro but I think the EL wiring is the one that can get black spots, it does sound like you have things a bit confused.

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