Hey guys,
How do you protect your sound boards? i know you can use heatshrink, but is there any other ways? I just need to protect that piece from touching the metal in the saber?
thanks
Hey guys,
How do you protect your sound boards? i know you can use heatshrink, but is there any other ways? I just need to protect that piece from touching the metal in the saber?
thanks
Make a chassis from PVC. That's what most people do.
Aluke123 on every other forum - Old grumpy moderator here
Thread Index, The Saber Building Dictionary, and The Basic Saber-Build Tutorial - Read Them!
On Erv's site plecterlabs.com there is a neat little tutorial on how to make a sled for the board out of sinktube.
A loose wrap of protective film works, like anti-static plastic... of for us cheapos, "3M scotch packaging tape" folded over on itself. (it shrinks w/heat also)
I use 2 sided tape, and mylar computer parts bags to make a strip that sticks to the 2 outside edges of the CF board. Each strip is only 1/4" wide, but it isolates the board and solder contacts nicely from the body of the saber.
MC
I've done it the other way round and put a length of pvc insulating tape on the inside of the hilt on both sides as the way the board is mounted it can't rotate in there.
Boy, everyone does something different. Take your pick.
I use the sleeves that come in a golf bag to hold the clubs. They fit nicely into the MHS, and they're thin, so they don't take up much space.
It's kinda tricky to do, but I lined the inside of my hilt with strips of electrical tape. The only downfall to this is it creates friction when pushing electronics into the hilt. If your wiring is clean I suppose it won't be much problem. Just a suggestion that worked for me.
Alderaan shot first.
I like the electric tape idea. I picked up some "liquid electrical tape" from the local auto shop. I am going to try coating the insides with that.
i use a piece from a trophy column, i hollow out the center a bit more, and cut a groove on either side on the inside. it makes like a slide rail that the board then just slides right into the piece. i put a dab of hotglue on the ends of the board where they meet the column part. that way i can remove the board if needed easy enough.
i have used this method on every sound board i have installed, hasbro's USV1, etc...
works perfectly, to snug up inside the hilt, just a enough wraps of electrical tape i use, till i get it where it stays good, but still can be moved to breakdown if needed. depending on if a screw in anywhere on the outside in the area where it goes, i will just make the screw long enough to go into the column enough to hold it securely.
Lan-Ed-Tul
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