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Thread: So Confused!

  1. #11

    Talking

    *Gives Darth a big fat kiss*

    Thank you! And your sithly Karma will come back to you tenfold.

    You guys are all the best!

    Now... Any girls on these forums besides me??

  2. #12

    Default

    If you want that blade to be a really bright white, when you order the Lux III kit, use the option to trade it off for the Seoul P4 white. It's almost twice as bright as the Lux III white, and will work better with the filters. You ight also want to trade out the resistor in the kit using the option menu, for the buckpuck, as it is more effecient at regulating the current and prolongs the battery life of the saber.
    Last edited by Jay-gon Jinn; 09-09-2008 at 02:21 PM.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  3. #13

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by XozFisto View Post
    *Gives Darth a big fat kiss*
    Sweet! Congratulations you are the first other woman to kiss me since I got married!

    Definately listen to what Jay said in his post. You will most definately want to switch out for the P4 LED it's much brighter than the Lux III but will run off the same electronics setup. The buckpuck wouldn't be a bad idea, they are a little pricier but definately worth it.
    wsoFB by Nathan Barnes, on Flickr

  4. #14

    Default

    go with the puck, it produces a better light and a more even draw off the batteries, with a resistor the light fades as the voltage drops, with a puck, it stays even untill the voltage drops below minimum or the batteries drain.

  5. #15

    Thumbs up

    *Hides from the wife*
    Okay.. .tonight... I buy my parts!

    What about blades? And if you get the blade holder... Do you need the screw still? What keeps the blade from going down inside, the holder? Oh so many questions. :P

  6. #16

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    yes, you need a screw to hold the blade in place, but more importantly you will need to drill and tap a hole in the blade holder, or pay Tim (Stryder) to do it for you.

    The hole for the blade does not go straight thru the holder, the inside has a shoulder that the blade sits against and there is a smaller hole for the light from the LED to shine up the blade.

  7. #17

    Default

    Yeah I'd hide if I were you, but shhh I won't tell if you won't

    The question with blades is simple. Are you going to duel and/or just hit stuff with your saber??

    Before I offer my suggestions I am going to state that this is my opinion and by no means the only way or the right way to do it, this is what I have done and what I find works best in my opinion.

    If you are just going for show, the thin walled blades are fine, they are light weight and still very strong. Not too many things will break them except a thick walled blade.

    If you want to beat stuff with the saber I suggest thick walled blades, they are heavier and stronger and pretty close to indestructible.

    As for diffusion I use 4 wraps of corbin's film and about 4 ft of clear gift wrap and it's very bright and very even.

    As for the Blade holder question. There is a shelf on the inside of the holder to stop the blade from going all the way into the saber. And yes you will need still need a screw to apply pressure to keep the blade from flying out of the holder.

    I think that covers hope it helps
    wsoFB by Nathan Barnes, on Flickr

  8. #18

    Thumbs up Back again!

    So with the film... Do you stick it to the inside of the tube or... How does that work?

    So far... I have gotten these items for my saber on my wishlist:
    Screw on LED blade holder style 4

    Double threaded hilt style 4

    MPS Pommel style 5

    MPS Insert style 6

    MPS Clip

    Build Your Own
    Luxeon III Electronics Kit
    Price: $36.19
    Collimator Lens 5 viewing angle
    SPST Push on/off - Mom switch with black button
    Luxeon III/V Lens Holder
    4AAA battery holder
    BuckPuck 1000mA
    White
    11 Colored Discs

    Blade film (1" Thick walled, Quad wrap +$9.00)

    3/4" Aluminum adhesive disc

    Shouldered 1" thick walled blade tips

    8-32 x 1/2" thumb screw

    1" Thick walled Polycarbonate 40" long

    MHS ribbed extension v-grooved
    Screw on LED blade holder style 4

    Double threaded hilt style 4

    MPS Pommel style 5

    MPS Insert style 6

    MPS Clip

    Build Your Own
    Luxeon III Electronics Kit
    Price: $36.19
    (Collimator Lens 5 viewing angle
    SPST Push on/off - Mom switch with black button
    Luxeon III/V Lens Holder
    4AAA battery holder
    BuckPuck 1000mA
    White)

    11 Colored Discs

    Blade film (1" Thick walled, Quad wrap +$9.00)

    3/4" Aluminum adhesive disc

    Shouldered 1" thick walled blade tips

    8-32 x 1/2" thumb screw

    1" Thick walled Polycarbonate 40" long

    MHS ribbed extension v-grooved

    Now... Did I do well? I just don't want to get all of this stuff and not be able to do it. I haven't ordered yet but I will.
    I just want to be able to hold a finished product in my hand in an afternoon.
    Hate having to wait. :P
    And yes, I want a long handle. I have a friend who does powder coating and can do a tap and die... So that's taken care of on my end. What else can I possibly be missing?
    And again... You all are the best for helping out this NOOB!

  9. #19

    Default

    The film can be tricky because everything likes to stick to it. If you've never done one before I would say order a complete corbin style battle blade and Tim will gladly put it all together for you so after you get everything wired up you just shove it in the BH tighten your screw and you are good to go.
    wsoFB by Nathan Barnes, on Flickr

  10. #20

    Default

    Which White LED did you choose? The Seoul P4 or the Lux III? You want the Seoul P4 if you are doing filters, as it is much brighter. The Lux III is underwhelming at best when filtered.

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