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Thread: And again with the flickering

  1. #1

    Default And again with the flickering

    So having used my simple foam lightsaber successfully in a game of Humans versus Zombies (albeit with much resoldering of the core LED string), I'm hoping to have upgraded it a little by the time next game rolls around. What I'm looking for first before anything else is a way to make the sucker flicker randomly without having to resort to buying a circuit board that does more than what I really need it for; that is, to make the saber flicker like a, well, saber.

    I have a bunch of LEDs in parallel drawing 20 mA each and would like to find a way to make them flicker randomly without breaking the bank (or having a weak connection that also breaks). Suggestions?

    (If someone could also tell me the cheapest way to add sound to a saber, I would be much obliged. I've heard that gutting cheap toy sabers is usually the way to do it...)
    Ore no kono te ga makka ni moeru!
    Shouri wo tsukameto todoroki sakebu!
    BaaaaAAAAKUNETSU!
    GOOOOODUUU FINGAAAAAAAAAA!

  2. #2
    Council Member Novastar's Avatar
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    A cheap way to implement an ATTEMPT at flicker would be to briefly allow the LEDs to get a "burst" of extra current upon impact.

    I've been suggesting an idea like this for "Luxeon style" direct-drive sabers... as a "poor man's clash flash".

    You'd need:

    * a clash sensor (from TCSS)
    * a different string of resistors... and possibly none at all if your battery solution + LEDs was "just right"
    * a capacitor might help--especially one that releases its energy somewhat "slowly"

    The idea would be--when the saber is in "normal use"--you run the LEDs @ 20mA or 15mA or whatever...

    But... when the clash device/circuit is completed--the current skips AROUND the main resistors... and instead... goes through a completely different set of weaker resistors (or none at all, depending) to achieve a brief "over-drive" with the current.

    The capacitor might be able to elongate the pulse of current... although it's questionable about whether or not you'll "see" the pulse because it could be so fast. All a question of how bright the normal blade is vs. the "clash on flash" brightness.

    Take care not to blow out any LEDs, but... many can handle a brief "burst" of current at 30mA, 40mA, even 50 or 60mA. It depends greatly on your battery solution and quality of the LEDs.

    Oh... and...

    WEAK SAUCE SOUND: Hasbro.
    ~~ GREYTALE NOVASTAR (Writer, Director, Choreographer, Sound Designer, Actor, Saber Designer, Vocal Artist)
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP I: "Into The Lion's Den"
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP II: "Ashes of The Phoenix"
    ~~ The Crystal Focus Sound CD Compendiums... are HERE! ~~
    ~~ Nova & Caine's Staged Combat System... comin' SOON!
    ~~ Crystal Focus Wiring Guide

  3. #3
    Sith Minion mihunai's Avatar
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    Default

    I dont know if this could be used in any way, but there are these little electronics candles that have a little 3V flicker PCB inside...

    Perhaps it could be used to control the LED's somehow...

    mTm


    Official Owner of Skottsaber at Bowling

  4. #4
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    Rhyen Skytracker's Avatar
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    That is a good idea, but I don't know if they can handle the current. Maybe if you could find a relay with a 3 V coil you could use that.

    Live long and...I mean May the force be with you. http://saberconcepts.50.forumer.com/index.php

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Novastar View Post
    A cheap way to implement an ATTEMPT at flicker would be to briefly allow the LEDs to get a "burst" of extra current upon impact.

    I've been suggesting an idea like this for "Luxeon style" direct-drive sabers... as a "poor man's clash flash".

    You'd need:

    * a clash sensor (from TCSS)
    * a different string of resistors... and possibly none at all if your battery solution + LEDs was "just right"
    * a capacitor might help--especially one that releases its energy somewhat "slowly"

    The idea would be--when the saber is in "normal use"--you run the LEDs @ 20mA or 15mA or whatever...

    But... when the clash device/circuit is completed--the current skips AROUND the main resistors... and instead... goes through a completely different set of weaker resistors (or none at all, depending) to achieve a brief "over-drive" with the current.

    The capacitor might be able to elongate the pulse of current... although it's questionable about whether or not you'll "see" the pulse because it could be so fast. All a question of how bright the normal blade is vs. the "clash on flash" brightness.

    Take care not to blow out any LEDs, but... many can handle a brief "burst" of current at 30mA, 40mA, even 50 or 60mA. It depends greatly on your battery solution and quality of the LEDs.

    Oh... and...

    WEAK SAUCE SOUND: Hasbro.
    Clash flash is definitely nice (and I'll probably be considering adding that, too), though I'm wondering more about the random flicker that sabers have when they're not really doing anything else .-.
    Ore no kono te ga makka ni moeru!
    Shouri wo tsukameto todoroki sakebu!
    BaaaaAAAAKUNETSU!
    GOOOOODUUU FINGAAAAAAAAAA!

  6. #6
    Council Member Novastar's Avatar
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    LOL. So get Crystal Focus. Ultrasound. Corbin's driver. A weak-sauce hasbro.

    You want LED driving for cheap? After all the work the sabersmiths out there have done, and what they have to offer? Especially all the FREE advice that is in ABUDANCE here on TCSS and many other places?

    Ha. Make it yourself.
    ~~ GREYTALE NOVASTAR (Writer, Director, Choreographer, Sound Designer, Actor, Saber Designer, Vocal Artist)
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP I: "Into The Lion's Den"
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP II: "Ashes of The Phoenix"
    ~~ The Crystal Focus Sound CD Compendiums... are HERE! ~~
    ~~ Nova & Caine's Staged Combat System... comin' SOON!
    ~~ Crystal Focus Wiring Guide

  7. #7
    Sith Minion mihunai's Avatar
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    Maybe if you went for a 4.8V(?) bat. pack, you could wire the candle PCB in series, so the LEDs would get more/less voltage in a flickering pattern...
    The LEDs should be individually resistored anyway.
    You would have to test this though...

    mTm


    Official Owner of Skottsaber at Bowling

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Novastar View Post
    LOL. So get Crystal Focus. Ultrasound. Corbin's driver. A weak-sauce hasbro.

    You want LED driving for cheap? After all the work the sabersmiths out there have done, and what they have to offer? Especially all the FREE advice that is in ABUDANCE here on TCSS and many other places?

    Ha. Make it yourself.
    Slow down, Tex! I'm just trying to find my options here, not trying to mooch. I'm more than willing to put the money and the effort into putting together something that works (I already did that with the Foam(Fail?)Saber v1.0), but if I can do it for less I will. Just give me a push in the right direction...

    PS: I love the idea of CF to death, but if they're not being sold anymore...
    Ore no kono te ga makka ni moeru!
    Shouri wo tsukameto todoroki sakebu!
    BaaaaAAAAKUNETSU!
    GOOOOODUUU FINGAAAAAAAAAA!

  9. #9
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    Jedi-Loreen's Avatar
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    They aren't being sold right now, till the next batch is made. "Anymore" sounds like you think they are discontinued.
    In order to see the Light,
    you must sometimes risk the Dark.
    TCSS MODERATOR


    BLUE 8 Ready to ROCK and ROLL!

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jedi-Loreen View Post
    They aren't being sold right now, till the next batch is made. "Anymore" sounds like you think they are discontinued.
    Oh, I see. I think I read something about the newsletter being discontinued. Any way I could find out when they're being sold again?
    Ore no kono te ga makka ni moeru!
    Shouri wo tsukameto todoroki sakebu!
    BaaaaAAAAKUNETSU!
    GOOOOODUUU FINGAAAAAAAAAA!

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