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Thread: 06 MR Obi Wan - Kits available

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    Default 06 MR Obi Wan - Kits available

    06 MR Obi-Wan Kenobi Conversion

    This tutorial will show you how to convert your 2005 Master Replicas Obi-Wan Kenobi ROTS saber to a 3watt Luxeon using the conversion kit that I offer. The saber will retain all sound functions and use the original switch. You must make sure your hilt is the same design as the one shown in this tutorial. I make no guarantees that the wiring etc that I say to use in this tutorial will be the same in all models. You will need to have basic soldering and mechanical skills to do the conversion. You can reuse the stock MR blade by putting some clear or reflective tape around the base to make it a tad bit bigger. When finished you will have one very strong saber as everything between your hands and the PolyC blade will be metal to metal with no weak plastic.

    Parts List
    MR Obi Wan Saber
    Conversion Kit
    8.7 Degree Collimator Lens
    Lens Holder
    Cree Star LED
    Thermal Tape

    Optional but recommended
    Complete 1" Blade to replace factory one
    8-32 screw for blade retention
    1/8" 8-32 set screw (optional - see end of tutorial for use)

    Picture of stock saber

    Remove the battery pack and end cap.

    Pry off the gold strip, using a small screwdriver or X-Acto knife. Don't pry off the black part, just the thin gold strip.

    Take out the two screws holding on the control box. Pull off the box.

    Snip off the wires from the switch, and set the box aside. Push the switch leads into the hilt.

    Unscrew the emitter. You will need strap wrenches or something to get a good grip on the hilt. This can be very difficult to remove.

    There is a plastic ring on the inside of the emitter. Shave it down so that the blade holder fits correctly in it. The blade holder should sit flush with the inner lip now.

    There is a small pin on the threading of the emitter. Pound it through with a nail punch.

    Slid the electronics out through the pommel end. This can be VERY difficult.

    There are 3 pins in the electronics sled. The one closest to the blade gets pounded all the way through. The other two ones are small and only need to be pushed inside the housing, using a punch.

    Split apart the housing. You will get a bunch of plastic parts. Here they all are.

    Cut the wires from the LED strip. Cut them to ~1.5" long. Leave the gray wire alone.

    Strip and tin all the wires.

    Solder two leads onto the LED. Make sure your LED is oriented properly. Now is when you put the thermal tape on (not shown). It sticks between the LED and heatsink.

    Solder the other leads to the two you put on the LED. Blue wire on shock sensor connects to Positive terminal on LED
    Purple wire from connector connects to Positive terminal on LED
    Gray wire leave alone
    Brown,Red,Orange,Yellow,Green, and Blue wire from connector connects to negative terminal of LED

    Now is a good time to test out your saber!

    Now, take the new blade holder, and line it up with the old plastic one. This picture shows a rough approximation of where it should be cut. If you cut it a little bit too short, then that is okay. Just get it close.

    Now take the heatsink and optics. Install the optics and thread the heatsink into the blade holder.

    Take the piece you cut from the original blade holder and slide it over the wires from the blade holder. Then plug in the connector to the sound board. Take the assembly together, as shown. Alignment doesn't matter, except for the slots on the two stock plastic parts, which should match up.

    Slide the electronics into the hilt, and pull the switch wires through.

    Resolder the switch to the switch leads.

    Install the control box, and glue on the gold strip. Hot glue will work fine here.

    Screw on the emitter. Make sure it is nice and tight.

    Drill and tap a hole for blade retention.

    Right now, the blade holder can spin if the retention screw is removed. To stop this, it is recommended to put a set screw in the threads, hidden by the emitter. Simply drill out the existing hole that you pushed a pin out of and thread it for an 8-32 screw. If you cut your plastic parts too short, then this screw will keep the blade holder from being pushed into the hilt. It is a nice little failsafe.

    Deburr your holes and put the emitter back on. Insert batteries, and fire up the saber. You are done!
    Last edited by Lord Maul; 05-28-2010 at 10:21 PM.
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