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Thread: The Basics of Thread Tapping

  1. #41
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    I don't see any need. It hasn't gotten out of hand like Jay's two threads had.
    Aluke123 on every other forum - Old grumpy moderator here

    Thread Index, The Saber Building Dictionary, and The Basic Saber-Build Tutorial - Read Them!

  2. #42

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    I checked Tim's catalog and saw that he doesn't sell these, so I hope it's OK to post a good find...

    In order to mount a TCSS recharge port jack in the side of a body piece, or another costum location other than the pre-tapped pommels, you need a 5/16-32 TAPER TAP. In a web search I discovered these are not a very common size and sort of hard to find. Prices ranging from about $12 to $17.

    I found a place that sells them for $3.36.

    http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=1...2__9_32__21_64

    I recently purchased this item and can vouch for their excellent customer service and fast shipping. It's just a simple HSS tap, but it did the job quite nicely for me.

    For that price it's a nice addition to any MHS saber builder.

    ~ Vonnor
    It's not how you move your saber...
    it's how you move yourself.

  3. #43
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    Brownells, huh?

    Many years ago, I bought some gun smithing tools and parts to do an action job on my S&W .357, from there.
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  4. #44

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    As far as tapping the screw hole goes, I am lacking in desired tools and experience...If I wanted to pay extra for this service, where on the site should I go to set that up??

    Much thanks

  5. #45
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    You order it on the Store page, under "Services".
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    you must sometimes risk the Dark.
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  6. #46

    Question

    that is great to know, one question though, i plan on using your drill/tap service when i start making my hilt, but its asks for the location hor the tapping, would be able to say that its for the blade retention screw?

  7. #47
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    Or just say in the blade holder. You can be more specific too, like how far up on the blade holder you want it to be, depending on what blade holder you're ordering. Or even ask that Tim screws the parts together, with the heat sink and lines up the blade retention screw hole with the switch hole in the hilt, if that's what you want.

    Don't forget about a hole for the Covertec button screw or D-ring, if you plan on hanging it from a belt. On my sabers, I usually like to put the Covertec button 90 degrees from the left of the switch.
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  8. #48

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lord Maul View Post
    Another formula is: to find the right size drill bit for the tap subtract the thread pitch from the screw size. Example: M5 screw with a .7 thread pitch would require a 4.3 drill bit.
    .
    To find the thread pitch for the english threads use this formula

    Pitch=1/threads per inch

    example:

    1/4-20 UN ; 1/20=.05 ;

    .250-.05=.200

    .201 is the # 7 drill bit

    Also if you center drill or spot drill a pilot hole on the circumference of the hilt, it will prevent the drill from walking off to one side or the other, which is very common while drilling on a radius.

  9. #49

    Default Jus my 2 copper low denomination offerings.

    I used this stuff at work when tapping it helps with breaking taps. Used to run a CNC lathe and did a lot of tapping with it though i used this stuff after i got off the CNC.

    Hope it helps some of you i see it can be relatively inexpensive. So thought i would suggest it.

    http://www.tapmagic.com/

  10. #50

    Default

    I would also recommend using center drill bits to make a starter hole before drilling.

    (Figured I would throw this in since the tread was refreshed.)

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