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Thread: The Basics of Thread Tapping

  1. #21

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    I'm going to ask every noob question under the sun, because I really don't know.

    Lets say I have a 1.5 sink tube and the corresponding MHS adapter. The adapter is pre-threaded, so when I drill through the sink tube do I need to also thread the tube?

    I imagine if I'm using a screw with a head not threading the tube would be fine, but if I want to use one of those hidden screws I would have to thread the tube also so it doesn't just wobble around in there.

    How could I thread the tube to make sure the thread lines up with the MHS thread, or is this something that I'm overthinking?

    Slightly related: What if I only want to use 2 of the adapter holes, 2 from 1 side of it, how could I maintain stability?

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by JetSet View Post
    I'm going to ask every noob question under the sun, because I really don't know.

    Lets say I have a 1.5 sink tube and the corresponding MHS adapter. The adapter is pre-threaded, so when I drill through the sink tube do I need to also thread the tube?

    I imagine if I'm using a screw with a head not threading the tube would be fine, but if I want to use one of those hidden screws I would have to thread the tube also so it doesn't just wobble around in there.

    How could I thread the tube to make sure the thread lines up with the MHS thread, or is this something that I'm overthinking?

    Slightly related: What if I only want to use 2 of the adapter holes, 2 from 1 side of it, how could I maintain stability?
    I'm not sure a fellow noob like me should be answering this, but I would say that even with a hidden screw, an untapped hole in the sinktube should be sufficient, providing it's not too large. And personally I think the four holes are overkill. In my own, I only used two of the holes. I used invisible screws, but I actually screwed them in from the inside, rather than the outside. On the outside, they are hidden by copper sheeting that I used as an overlay. Then again, my sinktube (bought in Japan) was such a tight fit that I had to cut slits in the sinktube too accommodate the MHS adapter. If you've got a looser fit, then my suggestions may not apply. I can't recall if the holes on the MHS adapter come pre-tapped. If they do, I can't see how you could possibly tap the sinktube and have the threads match up. (Now if you could tap from the inside, you could match them up easily, but that would require both a very short tap and an inch-high sentient being with opposable thumbs and miraculous muscle-power. Say, Atom Ant.)

  3. #23

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    sink tubes should be the same everywhere, the thing you have to watch is what gauge metal you are buying, the tubes have the same OD but the gauge affects the ID sometimes making adapters nto fit.

    I <3 Mako

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tradeliphine View Post
    sink tubes should be the same everywhere, the thing you have to watch is what gauge metal you are buying, the tubes have the same OD but the gauge affects the ID sometimes making adapters nto fit.
    Indeed. My failure was in 1) not checking the internal diameter when I bought the tube, and 2) assuming that the MHS adapter had more leeway. Take calipers that can measure ID with you when you go shopping for pipe. I don't know what it is inches, but the ID has to be at least 37.5 mm. Anything narrower than that, and you're in for trouble. (I still haven't found a sinktube in Japan that has that much ID, so I've ordered a couple from TCSS.)

  5. #25

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    im not sure about the mhs adapter, but the sinktube blade holder needs 1.20 inches I believe. The thing is that most stores have the threaded tallpieces in like 20 and 22 gauge but what you actually need to buy for the sinktube blade holder to work is the tall piece that has a fluted end and comes with a locknut and washer, its actually 24 gauge I believe. Im not sure if this applies to you too, or to MHS parts, but the premise remains, dont just settle for the loose pipe only items, check the bagged/boxed pieces too, theyre different gauges sometimes

    I <3 Mako

  6. #26
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    Updated with pictures!
    Aluke123 on every other forum - Old grumpy moderator here

    Thread Index, The Saber Building Dictionary, and The Basic Saber-Build Tutorial - Read Them!

  7. #27
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    sorry for the revival... but heres something to help. if you want the the hole directly at the peak of the part use an edge finder (only works with a milling machine of somekind). (Machine shop tool) to find the edges. its easy.

    1. mount the edge finder in your mill using a chuck
    2. usually turn at about 1000 RPM and lower the head of the edge finder so it will make a nice touch against the true egde of the part.
    3. move in slowly. as you touch the part with the edge finder you will notice the wobble at the bottom to stop.
    4. when you see the wobble stop... now is the time to move slowly by lightly tapping the turn handle so you move at about .001" at a time. soon you will see the bottom of the edge finder jump thus indicating you have hit the exact edge.
    5. zero were you are at. either zeroing your dial indicaters or hitting the digital display zero
    6. move over to the opposite side and repeat the entire process
    7. now as you find the exact side on the opposite side. devide the total length of distance you travled after finding both sides by 2. and move back that amount. now you can mount and drill and tap.


    drill and tap sizes:

    6/32 TAP = No. 36 drillbit
    8/32 TAP = No. 29 drillbit

    ill get the whole spectrum of drill and taps and update this thread later


    well i hope this was helpfull to someone!

  8. #28

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    Not everyone has acces to a milling machine, DJ....most people here don't even own a drill press. Drill bit sizes for the taps are listed in the first post...did you even read it before you posted?

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  9. #29
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    There is already a complete tap chart up DJ
    Aluke123 on every other forum - Old grumpy moderator here

    Thread Index, The Saber Building Dictionary, and The Basic Saber-Build Tutorial - Read Them!

  10. #30

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    or you can wrap a piece of paper around the tube, tape it, remove it, fold it in half, and anything you do, just mirror it on the other side. And to line up holes in a vertical row easily, put the tube in a household door frame against any of the varied steps of moulding and draw a line using the moulding as a ruler (old school model rocketing trick) most people have paper, tape, and doors

    I <3 Mako

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