To Jonitus, you listen.
Experience he has,
Correct information he speaks.
But if experience on your own you ask,
Prepared you must be when the LED freaks.
To Jonitus, you listen.
Experience he has,
Correct information he speaks.
But if experience on your own you ask,
Prepared you must be when the LED freaks.
~~ GREYTALE NOVASTAR (Writer, Director, Choreographer, Sound Designer, Actor, Saber Designer, Vocal Artist)
~~ Balance of Power, EP I: "Into The Lion's Den"
~~ Balance of Power, EP II: "Ashes of The Phoenix"
~~ The Crystal Focus Sound CD Compendiums... are HERE! ~~
~~ Nova & Caine's Staged Combat System... comin' SOON!
~~ Crystal Focus Wiring Guide
Thanks for reminding me of my place. I was just thinking ahead. I would like to some day build a saber with that LED, but I am definitely not ready at this point. So I thought I better start doing my homework.
I use the 10W LEDs on my saber. I drive two in series at 1amp for the main blade and the other two in series from a 1amp buckpuck for clash flash. (Using a CF4) But mine is single color..
If you want color changing with buckpucks, the best thing to do is use 4 buckpucks, and put 5k potentiometers between the REF and CTL leads on each buckpuck. (Or three: use one for the 2 greens,)
You don't want to add resistors on the buckpuck output, or you are just making realistic saber heat...
Last edited by Mad Hatter; 08-19-2008 at 09:16 AM.
I think I have a soltuion for the problem of having a button for each LED. A coded rotary switch.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...wp9TsAPA%3d%3d
Neat! how many will you use? Can't wait to see how it turns out.Originally Posted by vargose
Last edited by vadeblade; 08-19-2008 at 09:38 AM. Reason: typo
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"To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk." - Thomas A. Edison
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