...and the kill switch/plug cuts power from the board so they don't drain so much. Makes sense now. I'm sure I'll have many more questions!
...and the kill switch/plug cuts power from the board so they don't drain so much. Makes sense now. I'm sure I'll have many more questions!
Alderaan shot first.
If I run my amber Lux3 at 1A, will I notice a huge lack of brightness since its target mA is 1400?
Alderaan shot first.
you wont notice unless you had them side by side, and if you have never seen one at 1400 you wont know what your missing
I think it is worth it to use the 2 pucks just to know you are getting the most you can out of your saber and you dont have to wonder, what if?
That's true. it's just a toss-up between, do I want more brightness or a more realistic looking blade with the shimmer effects and ramp up/down?
By the way Arm, your Joe jedi/2 puck diagram and your thread about your saber "fury" has been of the utmost help to me in figuring out how to wire sound into my saber...thanks
Alderaan shot first.
you very welcome, by the way I like the new saber layout better.
Alright...I've got the V2 corbin board, but no "joe jedi" board...
What I've got is a recharge setup, a luvIII green, and the board...I've seen all the diagrams on wiring up everything WITH the sound board, but nothing for without...
Is this right or am I going to blow something up?
ALSO... I can rewire the battery connector coming from the charger to a 2.1mm plug right? I would have bought the adapter but they were not in stock when I bought all of my stuff.
Chase, as long as you follow the wiring diagram for the port, you're good - it doesn't matter what you're cutting power to... sound board or not...
I would recommend that you'd always use your recharge port as a kill switch. Because it cuts the power to electronics suite while it's charging. An LED and driver could get destroyed if they get turned on while charging...
and yes, if you've got a plug, you can wire it directly to the charger.
So what if I don't have killswitch plug? Also, it shows the three different solder points, are both negatives going from the port soldered together? It almost looks like someone just messed up with the diagram and didn't show the green and black connecting.
With your set-up, you don't need a killswitch key/plug thing, but for example, a CF, it bleeds power when it's connected to a battery.
The port itself is what connects the two negs (one from battery, one from board). and that connection gets cut when the plug/key thing is inserted.
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