Corbin board v2

**Phiily Manyaan** · 07-18-2008, 02:19 PM

I might go 4.8v rechargeable with port, because the way my saber is set up (i need to post pics), I have blade holder to 7"main hilt to thin neck 2 to male/male connector to 2" extension to pommel. One board (probably driver) will have to go in with the battery pack while the other will be on the other side of the neck in the 2" piece. Will need long wires for that and don't wanna be twisting them trying to replace batteries.

As for the switch, I'm not picky about little cosmetic things like that, and I could always make a cover plate. Thanks everyone for your incredible advice!

**eastern57** · 07-19-2008, 09:01 AM

Originally Posted by Phiily Manyaan

I might go 4.8v rechargeable with port, because the way my saber is set up (i need to post pics), I have blade holder to 7"main hilt to thin neck 2 to male/male connector to 2" extension to pommel. One board (probably driver) will have to go in with the battery pack while the other will be on the other side of the neck in the 2" piece. Will need long wires for that and don't wanna be twisting them trying to replace batteries.

As for the switch, I'm not picky about little cosmetic things like that, and I could always make a cover plate. Thanks everyone for your incredible advice!

Yeah, that screwing, twisting, torking, stretching, breaking....

Two things: 1) if you switch the board and battery... boards in upper-hilt, near switch, and battery in lower-hilt, you should be able to fit the speaker in there also. 2) if you're economical with your spacing, and wiring, you might even be able to fit a recharge port in the pommel - eliminating the need for twisting...

just an idea...

**Phiily Manyaan** · 07-19-2008, 09:18 AM

I was definitley thinking to put the port in the pommel, but I'm concerned with space (2" section + Male/male connector + top of thin neck 2 + inside of pommel 4) and whether the wires are long enough to go through the neck and have the connector easily accessible just in case. Unless...I can fit the battery and 616 side by side and the driver above those right behind the LED all in the 7" piece. Then I would just have to run wires down to the port and speaker. I don't have the boards or battery pack in hand yet so I don't know actual sizes, but I know the driver is fairly small and maybe if I go AAA I can do it. Just don't wanna cut down runtime...

**eastern57** · 07-19-2008, 09:42 AM

sorry, I'll stop telling you what you're already thinking

you got it.

**Phiily Manyaan** · 07-19-2008, 09:51 PM

Haha, don't worry about it, great minds think alike. I just never thought my saber would get this far and I'm excited about it.

Am I correct in saying the Corbin puts out 1A? If so will I be missing out by underdriving my LED by 4 tenths of an amp?

**Phiily Manyaan** · 07-20-2008, 08:31 AM

Here is my revised diagram, with recharge port and corrected switch wiring...

**Phiily Manyaan** · 07-24-2008, 08:11 AM

I was just looking at my above diagram, and I noticed the battery isn't connected to the switch as in diagrams i've seen using buckpucks, is that an issue?

**eastern57** · 07-24-2008, 09:22 AM

Originally Posted by Phiily Manyaan

I was just looking at my above diagram, and I noticed the battery isn't connected to the switch as in diagrams i've seen using buckpucks, is that an issue?

nope, the sound board and driver both use separate switch connections.

Pucks function as an inbetween ~ function like a driver, wired like a resistor.

Your recharge port is a tich vague, I'm sure you have it covered, but are you planning on using it as a a kill switch?

**Phiily Manyaan** · 07-24-2008, 11:08 AM

I don't know, I'm not sure I understand the "kill switch" concept. I've read about it, but I don't know. Just read the entire recharge port hookup thread while typing this, and I still don't really get it. It looks as though the switch goes between the battery (-) and board (-) which is confusing since the corbin has two separate places for battery and switch leads. But this is what I've got...

P.S. eastern thank you for all of your input!!!

**eastern57** · 07-24-2008, 11:41 AM

Before you get too far off. the recharge port doesn't get wired to any switch connections.

The recharge port sold here is a "switch" so to speak, as in, when used properly, it will close or open a connection. This connection is the power feed from the battery. Some boards/drivers continue to suck power from the battery even when it's not activated. This recharge port serves to cut that connection to the battery completely, so there's no residual drain on the battery.

Also, it can be used to recharge the battery when plugged into the charger sold here

They can be confusing, but once you figure it out, it's easy.

Originally Posted by Phiily Manyaan

P.S. eastern thank you for all of your input!!!

ain't done yet