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Thread: Corbin board v2

  1. #1

    Default Corbin board v2

    I've not been able to find any threads/diagrams pertaining the Corbin V2 board in the shop. I just bought a Joe Jedi 616 board for my saber but can't find a diagram showing how to wire it to the new driver. Should be said that I am running amber Lux3, 6V (4AA). Has anyone done this and can offer advice?


    Also, would I use the latching board?
    Last edited by Phiily Manyaan; 07-17-2008 at 03:24 PM.
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  3. #3
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    That's the old one... new one's not too different... stand by, I'll take some pictures.

    update:
    pictures taken. Just so happens, my graflex parts came today, and it's getting an upgrade... anyway....

    Here's a general picture. For the LED and Battery connections, the + and - are clearly marked, even though you can't see them in the pics.



    Closer shot:



    There's already diagrams posted that show the connections on the standard MRs and SW-616s... so I won't post more, but really, there's enough to figure it out yourself, it's just a matter of putting things together and of course, trial and error...

    but yes, your LED and battery are fine for your desired set up, and yes, you would need a latching version.
    Last edited by eastern57; 07-17-2008 at 04:15 PM.

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    Thank you sirs!
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  5. #5

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    Is this at all correct?

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  6. #6

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    Here's a question involving the Corbin v2. I want to add a Tim's PLI and a Hasbro (obiwan style) using the Corbin v2 momentary as the driver and spst switches. I could just live with having just the corbin and PLI but I'd like some sound. Any diagrams on this?

    "Absolutely not. You're not going to the dark side on my watch. Do it on Luke's."
    ―Corran Horn, to Tahiri Veila

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    The switch connections from the same board go on the same side - check out the diagram that Savyas posted. Otherwise, it looks good!

    edit: Silent, look here:
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ead.php?t=4091

    This has all the answers - not all on one plate, mind you... but we're learnin' you to fish...
    Last edited by eastern57; 07-17-2008 at 05:55 PM.

  8. #8

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    Thanks again, the switch was all i wasn't sure about.

    Give a man a fish, he'll never learn, teach a man to fish, he'll have no choice but to learn.

    One more thing, will the dpdt switch in the store fit in the hole in the 7" hilt sections? The switch dimensions on the site said something like 8.4 mm and I measured the hole on my hilt and it was about 9mm, just wanted to know if anyone has tried it.
    Last edited by Phiily Manyaan; 07-17-2008 at 06:11 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phiily Manyaan View Post
    One more thing, will the dpdt switch in the store fit in the hole in the 7" hilt sections? The switch dimensions on the site said something like 8.4 mm and I measured the hole on my hilt and it was about 9mm, just wanted to know if anyone has tried it.
    You'd only need 6.4mm of clearance for the switch to move (3.2 x 2). And you could affix it to the inside, with just the pole sticking out - sure, that'd work...

    The only thing I'd be concerned with is what it would look like... but hey, if you're fine with it then so am I...

  10. #10

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    some people have complained that 6V fried their 616.. you might want to add a 5v voltage regulator in there for the 616, just to be safe... only costs a couple of bucks and well worth the insurance.

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