1st official question

[benny]

Have been looking through the website (this one & others) and can't seem to find an answer to my biggest question.

When building your saber w/a blade, what is needed to have it "do" what all lightsabers do?? You know what I mean, the one characteristic that makes a lightsaber a lightsaber, the blade "extending" from the hilt when activated & "retracting" back in when deactivated.

This is my biggest question I had when I started looking into this hobby.

Any answers will be appreciated, nothing too technical as I haven't started building any sabers yet but maybe some links to websites (or this one) w/what is needed & cost.

There, just popped my cherry on posting my 1st question in this forum, it almost feels like a right of passage into lightsaber manhood.

[Ade Kenobi]

For a saber using a Lux III then you will need a Luxeon driver such as http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Lu...r-V2-P230.aspx or a Crystal Focus board (this will give you sound as well) to handle the electronics side of things and a diffuser film to go inside the polycarbonate tube like http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Blade-film-P197.aspx

[CorellianBada**]

welcome aboard Benny, to answer your question, do you mean the telescoping effect like in the Master replicas FX sabers? b/c those are done with strings of LED's that light sequentially when activated.

If you're planning to duel/battle with the saber, it might be better to stay away from LED strings.

[eastern57]

Welcome, Benny!

To differentiate what the two previous gentlemen have stated - a "string" of LEDs, properly driven, can provide the "extension" and "retraction" effect, as in the movies. That, so far, is the best substitution for that specific effect. Although it's a less used technique - it's not impossible.

The Luxeon drivers that Kenobi-san refers to, gradually brightens the main LED, it's a similar effect, but not the "go-out/go-in" effect. This is much easier to accomplish, more widespread, and a large percentage of the community is satisfied with it being close.

It's a choice that you would make, as is the rest of your set-up. Neither is difficult, but require different components. Really, the decisions depends on what you want out of your saber and what you plan to do with it.

Good Luck!

[Pullo]

Sorry Benny but it just isn't possible to build a 100% accurate lightsaber. I wish it was. The MR Force FX have the best retraction effect of the blade but you are then left with the blade attached, and as previously stated they are not the best if you intend to duel. The fact that a converted FX or an MHS or custom saber will have a removable blade is about as close as you can get to the movie versions. Believe me they are worth it

[Klaatu]

Does any one have a quick vid of the lux 3 driver from here "in action" I would like to see it work. I recently gutted my first mhs to add a sound board from a hasbro that makes the light flicker on power up and down. The next saber im working on has a lux 3 and i was thinking about getting the driver

[Master Dru-Er]

I just ordered one today wasn't a part of my original build (i think they have been out of stock every time i looked at them) so i jumped on it since it's here $50 is pretty cheap IMO for retraction shimmer and flash, well it atleast not expensive compared to what I might pay for a crystal focus....

[DarthFender]

Does any one have a quick vid of the lux 3 driver from here "in action" I would like to see it work. I recently gutted my first mhs to add a sound board from a hasbro that makes the light flicker on power up and down. The next saber im working on has a lux 3 and i was thinking about getting the driver

Klaatu,

Go to Youtube and find Corbin's Killer PEnny Video. That one is driven by his 3W Driver. I dont think anyone has posted a vid on the New Driver yet. But the only difference in performance is the static Shimmer. You might not be able to see that too well on the you tube vid anyway.