No "power down" sounds on SW-616 Joe Jedi

[Arm on Fire]

Here is the updated wiring diagram showing where I put the diode.

[Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie]

*Sigh*

I feel like such an idiot. I spent the whole evening wiring up my 616, only to find that I had no power down sound.

When I bench tested it, it worked fine. When I had it partly installed and tested it by twisting the wires together, it worked fine. After I get it all together... it doesn't work fine.

Then, I did a search and found this thread. Somehow I missed it. I think it was started during the time my computer was down.

Oh well, maybe by bumping this thread, I can save someone else a headache.

If anyone needs me, I'll be at the Radio Shack...

[MoonDragn]

Ok I think Ive got it, I put a rectifier diode in between the positve leads of the battery,board and speaker and the positive line out to the puck. I'm not sure if I am right but I think what was happening was the board was getting some kind of voltage signal/spike from the puck shutting off that was interupting the "power down" sequence of the sound board. so by isolating the positive on the pucks with a diode (which from what i understand is like a "check valve" of sorts allowing the power to only flow one way)I get the powerdown every time now.

So unless someone can tell me why this is wrong, Im going with what is working.

I will try and update my wiring diagram as soon as i can.

Theoretically this is a DC circuit, so there shouldn't be any current flowing backwards. However, if the buckpucks contain capacitors to buffer the current, it will discharge back into the circuit when you turn them off. That would explain why the diode would work. Plus the diode regulates the current used by the Pucks and LED. You need to get one that meets or exceeds the overall power drain or you're gonna get a fried Diode. Another LED with the same power rating would work in its place as well.

[DizzyKungFu]

Theoretically this is a DC circuit, so there shouldn't be any current flowing backwards. However, if the buckpucks contain capacitors to buffer the current, it will discharge back into the circuit when you turn them off. That would explain why the diode would work. Plus the diode regulates the current used by the Pucks and LED. You need to get one that meets or exceeds the overall power drain or you're gonna get a fried Diode. Another LED with the same power rating would work in its place as well.

I had the same problem using a simple resistor, so I can personally attest that it's not the fault of the Buckpuck(s). I couldn't tell you the electronics theory behind it, but Arm's solution involving the diode definitely fixes the problem. I've done it for three different sabers now without any further issues.

[MoonDragn]

I had the same problem using a simple resistor, so I can personally attest that it's not the fault of the Buckpuck(s). I couldn't tell you the electronics theory behind it, but Arm's solution involving the diode definitely fixes the problem. I've done it for three different sabers now without any further issues.

Sounds weird, anyone have the schematic of the soundboard itself? That would answer alot of questions.

[Darth_DevilGuy]

Sounds weird, anyone have the schematic of the soundboard itself? That would answer alot of questions.

I doubt it, even if it isn't proprietary technology (I don't know if it is or not) I don't think MR is going to be all that anxious to release the schematics of their products.

[Logan Cade]

I had the same problem on a project I’m working on…I think it’s the on/off switch.
I’m using a DPST switch, which operates 2 circuits (one to run the sound board and the other to power the LED) sharing the same battery source. If I shut-off the switch slowly, I have power down sounds, If I do a fast click off, no power down.

I wonder if the original switch on the board hangs a bit on purpose.

I’m going to pull my saber apart again while leaving everything wired up the way it is and see if the original switch on the board works properly. I'll also try the diode idea too while I’m there.

[Phiily Manyaan]

Mine does the same thing. I have a DPDT switch and if I slide it real slow I get power down sounds. Weird.

[Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie]

Dang it! I just put mine all together, with the diode, and it still doesn't give me the shut down sound.

I've been messing with this thing for a while now, and just got it all to fit together nice and neat, only to have to have it still not work right. At this point, I might just rip it out and try for a CF or US.

[Arm on Fire]

I have wired up a 3 or 4 of these so far and tryed a number of differnt things to make it fool proof with no luck. on my last build i had to put diodes in several places (dont ask me where, I dont remember exactly) to get it to work.

I have ruled out the switches, Ive tried several types.

There has been a few others that have said it works more consistantly when the batterys get weak. I have noticed the same.

When you add a diode it drops the voltage slighty depending on the diode you use. the ones I used drop it about 1v so that would lead me to believe the issue revolves around the fact that we are skirting the voltage limits of this board with a 6v pack and it is affecting its operation.

Has anyone tried this type of setup with a 4.8v pack? if so do you get the powerdown sounds?