Wire routing issue with MPS + Sound

[Darth Morbius]

Normally, I don't bug you guys about little things like this, but I am having a brain-bender here at the moment.

I am currently doing a CF 4.0 Retrofit on an Existing Overlord hilt. All headaches aside with the length of the one-piece hilt, and convenience of installation (I have that figured out for the most part), I have hit a snag.

The problem: Using a style 3 Pommel, Style 6 MPS insert, Recharge port, and a premium speaker.

The main issue is routing the wires AROUND the speaker, while holding everything in place inside the hilt. All without snagging the wires up if wanting to remove the pommel.

Any suggestions? I am at a point where I need to take a break from it, and seek advice before I totally bork this project.

I was thinking of the possibility of a smaller speaker, but finding one that will still provide decent quality sound is a concern.

[xwingband]

It may seem a horrible responce, but I just wouldn't put the port in the pommel. After dealing with that on Kyp's saber and others I've done... NEVER again.

hehe, I'm going to be working on a Overlord with a V3 soon. A port is only about .25" off of the internal space so that's not make or break on the batteries. As I said... no pommel port for me. :P

[Darth Morbius]

I completely understand that!

Unfortunately, this design is requested by the saber owner, and I don't want to have to drill into the hilt. I've got plenty of room to do so, but I just can't fathom doing it. Besides, I may have to use a different auxillary button than the one he wants! That's bad enough... Those stupid Guarded switches are just too damn long!

I may have to talk to my client and see if it is acceptable to place the port elsewhere, but If I can wedge it in, I might have to bite the bullet.

[Lord Maul]

You could try filing a slot away in the speaker mount for the recharge port wires to go through. Not twisting them would be a pain. I have no idea how to keep that from happening

[Darth Morbius]

Problem is, I cannot use the MHS speaker mount. I may have to fabricate something.

[xwingband]

I completely understand that!

Unfortunately, this design is requested by the saber owner, and I don't want to have to drill into the hilt. I've got plenty of room to do so, but I just can't fathom doing it. Besides, I may have to use a different auxillary button than the one he wants! That's bad enough... Those stupid Guarded switches are just too damn long!

I may have to talk to my client and see if it is acceptable to place the port elsewhere, but If I can wedge it in, I might have to bite the bullet.

We're doing very similar work then. I'm replacing it with a guarded switch too. Haven't decided the exact momentary I want to use, but there are tons to pick from.

I typically take a piece of 1.25" plastic sinktube and then glue on a styrene back. With a bit of silicon glue it's good sealed chamber. It still doesn't help trying to get a port at the bottom because of the thicknesses and sealing it, but maybe it will get your noodle going.

For me it's less headaches and I'm going with place the port north of the covertec.

[eastern57]

I've done it a few times... all-around-headache, but it worked...

Lord Maul's idea works: file a small groove in the speaker mount, just big enough to fit the 3 wires from the recharge port, either in the inside or outside of the ring; I use 26 gauge.

I also use a little glue, to hold the speaker in the mount... it also helps with resonance because it's more secure (tiny bit more low end).

I have about 3" of slack between the pommel and the end of the hilt. If you have a loose fitting pommel insert, hold it in place while you twist it on, or just counter-twist the pommel before you screw it on.

If you need a few millimeters more space (and it DOES make a difference), an O-ring on the pommel works great.


The other method I've use is to have a small section of PVC, 1 1/16" OD by 3/4" long - just enough to fit in the pommel and around the recharge port.

Now stick with me on this one... File 3 grooves on the outside of the PVC and the bottom rim ("bottom rim" = pommel insert side) to feed the wires down and around the PVC piece. Following? The speaker gets glued to the open end of the PVC.

I prefer this way, because of the PVC resonance chamber, it sounds much more "full". Plus, if you bundle all 5 wires, the pommel, speaker, recharge port all comes off in one piece - making it easier to get to the SD card. Pretty much only the "counter-twist method" works on this one and, again, o-ring makes for more space.


It may sound like a "hack-job", but it can really look professional with time and care.


edit, nevermind the speaker mount idea... just saw that.

[Darth Morbius]

Thanks eastern!

Maul has a good point there with the speaker mount but I cannot use it unfortunately.

However, after going through all of my parts bins, I think I have found a work-around.

The stock black plastic blade holders from an MR Obi-Wan saber fits NICELY inside the bore for the pommel.

I lowered the gauge of the wires running from the port, cut the Obi holder down til it was 1/2" from the end of the pommel threads and drilled holes in the plastic for the wires.

I then milled grooves into the black plastic holder to serve a wire channels.

With thinner gauge wire now slides easily between the holder and the hilt body with a little wiggle room.

As far as the insert goes, it's locked in place. BUT I enlarged the hole (got rid of the threads) for the port, and will just use the supplied retention nut. That way, the pommel can be removed by taking off the retention nut, and just unscrewing it.

I'll get some pics up when I am completely done.

[Er Dan Gill]

Now I know my way isn't fancy or anything but it works.
I took a soda lid and cut a notch in it. Leaves plenty of room for the wires to pass by, I'm using 20 guage silicone wire for RC cars, and still has good sound.

Sorry for the crappy cell phone pic,

[DarthFender]

That's a good solution. ALso you could keep wires from twisting and breaking of you wire a 1/8" mono jack and plug for the recharge port kinda like a quick disconnect.. That way it will spin around but not break. You could also use a stereo for the recharge port of you are using it as a kill switch.