New Design, New Builder...

**Voice** · 05-28-2008, 01:42 PM

I've decided to go ahead and build my first custom saber. I've got the design worked out, just substitute MPS Pommel 1 in the attached image.

I've got the following parts in mind:
MPS Pommel 1
MPS Insert 6
MPS Clip
Hilt 4
Ribbed Extension
Emitter 4
36" Corbin-style Battle Blade
O-Rings (6 green, 2 black)

I'm going without the electronics at first, but I'm going to add them later.
Any good source of sound boards these days? I'm on the interest list for the UltraSound v2, but there hasn't been any news on that for a while.

If I go with the Build-Your-Own Lux3 kit, do I need the Luxeon 3w driver V2? If not, what does it replace in the BYO kit?

Any little bits that I've missed? (screws, etc. that don't come with what they're used to secure?

**MaverickJsmith** · 05-28-2008, 02:00 PM

The electronics kit gives you everything you need to make a lighted saber. You don't need the driver board. The driver board gives you lighting effects like power up and down, and blade shimmer I believe. So it's optional.

I hope I helped

Maverick

**Voice** · 05-28-2008, 02:31 PM

Ok that's what I suspected. Is the driver board a straight add-on, or does it replace some part of the kit?

Oh, and one other question. I've seen a few yellow blades that appear to be *really* bright. How do you get them. White with a yellow filter, or do you get better mileage starting from amber?

**BhujangiJedi** · 05-28-2008, 03:32 PM

If they appear to be really bright, it's just a trick of photography.

From what I've seen on the boards, it looks like the best setup for bright yellow (while keeping it relatively simple) is a Seoul P4 white (not currently sold by TCSS, available elsewhere - dealextreme) with a yellow filter.

The amber LEDs give a different color... amber/orange-ish. Which explains why they're called amber instead of yellow. They're also not nearly as bright as others, like red, green, blue.

Search the forums on amber if you're interested - there's been plenty of discussion.

**DarthFender** · 05-28-2008, 09:52 PM

Originally Posted by Voice

Ok that's what I suspected. Is the driver board a straight add-on, or does it replace some part of the kit?

Oh, and one other question. I've seen a few yellow blades that appear to be *really* bright. How do you get them. White with a yellow filter, or do you get better mileage starting from amber?

If you use the driver board, you will not need the resistor that comes with the kit. Just make sure you get the latching version of the driver, or make sure your kit comes with a momentary switch. (I would use a latching setup so it will be compatible if you want to add a MR soundboard later.)

If you got a radio shack near you, they may still have the MR SW-616 Lightsaber construction kit. They currently are on clearance for 35 bucks (US) and are a great source for sound.

**Voice** · 05-29-2008, 05:47 AM

Thanks for the tip. I'll have to check the one in my neighborhood. For $35, I certainly won't mind tearing it apart.

As for the really bright yellow, DARTH KALEL is the one I'd seen, and I just found his post where he describes what he used, so I've got a good place to start. P4, and two sets of light yellow and amber filters.

**Voice** · 05-30-2008, 06:46 AM

I've had a thought about getting a good yellow. Having seen the modification to the MR construction kit lightsaber so it can power the 3 colors independently, I'm wondering if an RGB LED might not be the better route for getting a good yellow. Heck, I'm not even looking to make it changeable on the fly, so that should simplify things a bit.

Looking for input so I waste as little money as possible to get the best result I can.

**Arm on Fire** · 05-30-2008, 09:28 AM

You really cant go wrong buying it for $35, if the modification dosnt work out you can still use the sound board in another saber. next to a hasbro, I dont know where to find sound for that price. Not to mention there are a few other parts in that kit that could be used fo othe sabers as well