Need switch suggestions for my saber

[vadeblade]

Hi,

I was wondering if people can help me with N.O. momentary switch ideas for my hilt. First pictures of what I have so far...

I have MHS ribbed section with a sink tube shroud. I cut out two(2) tabs in the shroud




Here is what the sink tube looks like temporarily installed




When I am holding the hilt my index finger lays over the longer tab and my middle finger is over the shorter tab. I want to install a switch under the tabs. Longer one will be blade on/off and shorter tab is aux.



So what kind of switch should I use under the tabs?

I have considered micromini tactile switch, reed switch, normal push button, or just a small circuit board and copper contacts. My ideal solution would keep the inside of my hilt clean - no switch body sticking through a hole... I need all the room for sound board, driver for LED, battery, feedback motor, speaker and other decor. i also want to reduce the size and number of holes I drill through my MHS parts.

cheers,
V.

[xl97]

use a tactile momentary..that has a super tall 'butotn head'

I have several types... some square with a very small/short head that is circular.. and I have some that have a TALL button that is almost like a cone shape.. you can get them in several mm heights..

definately enough to mount in the hilt and have a small button head protrude through a 'hole'.


last pic in the first post should give you an idea of size and a visual of the button

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ead.php?t=4695

[vadeblade]

use a tactile momentary..that has a super tall 'butotn head'

I have several types... some square with a very small/short head that is circular.. and I have some that have a TALL button that is almost like a cone shape.. you can get them in several mm heights..

definately enough to mount in the hilt and have a small button head protrude through a 'hole'.

Thank you. I was thinking that but I am completely lost on the method of mounting it inside the hilt. Do you just epoxy it in place? Any chance you have a picture?

[xl97]

"I" havent mounted one yet myself... but there have been pics posted on using that SAME button in a build..and yes I believe he just expoy'd it to the inside of the hilt..

I'll be using that same button..or the flat style myself.. but that will be (I believe) going into the side/lip/edge of the double threaded male connecter.. we'll see (I have so many projects 'in progress' I loose track and focus sometimes) lol

[eastern57]

go up to search and put in "tactile" - there's a few threads that have great ideas... some mine, some others...

I've used them a bunch, but never with epoxy. I just don't like to use glue. I'd prefer to jimmy-rig something, in case I want to change it up later.

[vadeblade]

yeah, i don't really want to epoxy or bondo putty anything in place inside the hilt either. Actually, if it can be helped I would rather not drill more than one hole in the hilt body either - a small one for wires to go through. I was trying to come up with some sort of surface mounted switch right under the tab but can not come up with a good solution. I really want to keep the inside of the hilt as clean as possible.

Question, what rating should a switch have for a CF board? How about max resistance should a switch have for one of those boards? I was thinking of just wiring the positive(+) end of the board to a very small PCB and glue that under the tab. Then the negative terminal to the hilt body itself. pressing the tab would cause it to touch the PCB and close the circuit. Would that work?

[eastern57]

Are you familiar with how rubber calculator buttons work? or the buttons on a hasbro lightsaber?

It's basically a small piece of pcb with exposed leads. Under the rubber button is a magnetic circle that closes the conection when pressed. check it out, it might be what you're looking for.

[vadeblade]

Are you familiar with how rubber calculator buttons work? or the buttons on a hasbro lightsaber?

It's basically a small piece of pcb with exposed leads. Under the rubber button is a magnetic circle that closes the conection when pressed. check it out, it might be what you're looking for.

i have old electronic stuff with rubber buttons. i'll take those apart and see if it will work. thanks.

[xl97]

I have been working on a 'demo/model' control box for my saber(s)..

it includes a PLI, a LATCHING slide switch (DPDT) (mini) and a momentary button..

the PLI and slide switch are pretty much a standard altough a push button momentary can be done too in place of the latching slide switch.. the secondary momentary on the 'left' side is optional.. I added for this mock-up as I believe in final usage its counter part will be set-up the same way and be used with a Plecter Dimmer to set-up the boards options. Otherwise it would be just a plastic 'bump'.. very slim and 'ok' IMHO..

I'l post some pics of it in the gallery in a few.. the 'nice' one is completely finished yet.. still taped up..

pics:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...7603#post87603

[BlackDOG]

I really dig the idea of mounting the switch under the sink tube.....

The micro tactiles WITHOUT the tall button top would work. However, getting the square hole just right for the switch to fit in is really tricky. I used a dented MHS piece to practice on and I would have still probably used epoxy on the inside.....I used epoxy putty.

Here is my aux switch in the choke point.

To show the expoxy.


It is the micro tactile with the tall button. A larger hole to accomodate the switch body was drilled out from the inside (counter sink style) after I drilled the smaller hole for the switch button from the outside.

This won't work for your application you can drill out from the inside.