Recharge port, 616 and you

[eastern57]

"Nice!" Good job, dude! I'll put this in the "to be indexed" thread. Hopefully, other people will be able to learn from your work. Way to go, DN!

[xl97]

xl97,

I looked at your setup, and for the most part, it's good - especially since you decided to use an MR sound board.

Here's a few suggestions, use them if you want, but your set-up (when using the MR instead of a hasbro) WILL work.

I moved to PLI to the recharge port connection - this way, the PLI comes on when the when you remove the recharge plug... kinda like the idle LED on CF... only it's a bargraph.

Also, the momentary tactile pushbutton can be used to trigger both the clash/lockup on the LED driver AND the hit sensor on the sound board (aka clash sensor). If this were MY set-up, I'd actually use the clash sensor instead of the momentary tactile.

Lastly, since you're going to use a recharge port as a safety off, you won't need the "blade removal switch", so, you can just bridge the two solder pads with solder.

Good luck!

re-visiting since Im back from my trip and hoping to actually pick up the 'iron' this weekend..

the diagram confused (cause Im a noob).. but it looks as if the boards get power to them at ALL TIMES (unless recharging).. even if the saber is 'off'?

Wouldnt the switch be in between the power and the rest of the stuff? (sound board, driver board and accent LEDS?)

just asking..not arguing.. (to be clear).


also.. unfortunately.. I am supposedly getting an MR (thanks Dark Helmet).. however I have not received it yet... so I guess if I want to move forward.. I am going to be using a 616 board.

all I have is 616 boards or hasbro boards at my disposal for now.

will things have changed? Also should I wait to use the Plecter driver with an MR board? (better usage?) then pairing it with a 616??



anyways.. a quick question.. I am stopping at radioshack on way home to grab some resisitors for a few direct drives... as well as to run some accent LED's..

how do I tell what resistor types I need?

for MAIN resistor.. only used with P4 & III LED (1.5ohm 5watt)?? (2.2ohm 5watt)??

resistor for accent LED's? (no clue? whatever type of LEDS I have I suppose? will tell me what kind of resistors to buy?)

dont have any buck pucks currently..


P.S.:
also, since I dont know jack about electronics, I'll have to ask how (or if possible).. I had played around with & posted the idea of having my PLI on at all times.. but with the DPDT switch i was wondering if I could have another option?

Option/Set-up A:

position1: saber off

position2: saber on, PLI constantly on (like diagram shows)

position3: saber on, PLI off (and only activated by momentary push push button/tactile switch)



also, Im still un-clear what you meant by the EXTRA momentary (aux) button that will enable the clash/lock-up manually. your saying do NOT use a button for it? but use the clash sensor?

wouldnt that make it ALWAYS shimmer (on clash/sound) instead of only when it is supposed to be on lock-up? (to the board..there is no difference I suppose?)

[eastern57]

the diagram confused (cause Im a noob).. but it looks as if the boards get power to them at ALL TIMES (unless recharging).. even if the saber is 'off'?

Wouldnt the switch be in between the power and the rest of the stuff? (sound board, driver board and accent LEDS?)

all I have is 616 boards or hasbro boards at my disposal for now.

will things have changed? Also should I wait to use the Plecter driver with an MR board? (better usage?) then pairing it with a 616??

how do I tell what resistor types I need?

First part - you'd be using the boards' activation. They both have their own on/off switch connections... if you think about it, you'd get no "power down" effect if you just cut power

616 boards are still useful... and better for solo sound IMO. I would still use the driver to get more options and the cool effects.

You have to calculate resistance to determine which one to use. Most accent LEDs take about 2-3+V and 20-40mA.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_resistance

[eastern57]

also, Im still un-clear what you meant by the EXTRA momentary (aux) button that will enable the clash/lock-up manually. your saying do NOT use a button for it? but use the clash sensor?

wouldnt that make it ALWAYS shimmer (on clash/sound) instead of only when it is supposed to be on lock-up? (to the board..there is no difference I suppose?)

disregard the singular clash sensor... apparently, you'd need two: one for each board. But no, they wouldn't constantly shimmer, only when it detects an impact.

[xl97]

disregard the singular clash sensor... apparently, you'd need two: one for each board. But no, they wouldn't constantly shimmer, only when it detects an impact.

sorry , let me clarify,, yes it would ALWAYS shimmer..on ANY impact..

correct? even though (in theory) the impact could NOT be a lock-up or something.. (maybe a deflection..etc)..

but I mean any time the sound goes off.. it will shimmer.. I guess that what I am driving at.


update:

ok..but your saying 86 that idea altogether now?

so I will need an extra, manual momentary button to enabl to SHIMMER effect of the board? (can I manually make the sound go off too with it?...curious)

[xl97]

First part - you'd be using the boards' activation. They both have their own on/off switch connections... if you think about it, you'd get no "power down" effect if you just cut power

616 boards are still useful... and better for solo sound IMO. I would still use the driver to get more options and the cool effects.

You have to calculate resistance to determine which one to use. Most accent LEDs take about 2-3+V and 20-40mA.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_resistance

ahh..yess I see.. (power up/down.... makes total sense.. guess I wasnt really thinking correctly)

There is no set resistor to use when direct driving an LED? like a 1.5ohm 5w resistor? I understand it may vary for whatever the type of accent LED used.. correct?


as for the 616 boards..what do you mean solo sound? You saying they work well enough to NOT use the additional plecter driver? so I should wait until I get that MR board to use it with? (the best possible combo for MY parts?)


I leave in a few minutes.. I hope I can figure out your diagram/link..

[eastern57]

LOL!! Dude, we suck at the communication thing!!

Solo sound - it would be good if you're only going to use it for sound, because it has two sound styles. Still use the driver.

Resistor - calculating resistance depends on power going in: i.e. battery voltage. The resistance changes if you change the voltage of the battery.

Clash sensor - just a motion activated switch, think of it as such... how ever you would use a switch, a clash sensor will do it with impact.

dang, I hope this is clearerer

[xl97]

clearer... thanks..

I see.. 'solo'.. as NOT used to drive the LED.. LOL..

I have straight 4 pack AAA holder..

and 4.8NiHM pack...

4AAA will be used in direct (resistored) drive... (no re-charge..separate project all together)

so back to senor (sorry)

so I "CAN" wire up the LED drvier to the clash sensor. and have it automatically go off (shimmer) whenever the sound/impact/clash sensor fires..

yes or no? (the two sensor comment has me confused)

and in theory can I ALSO have a mom. button to make it shimmer manually outside of the impact/clash sensor?

anyways Im off.. work is giving me the boot early today! LOL

thanks

[eastern57]

okay, getting tired... once you start wiring and getting your hands dirty, a lot, a LOT, A LOT of these questions just go away... because you learn... now get your learn on... Stat!!

[xwingband]

They are now $35 at Radioshack. I went and got two.

I'm not sure exactly what I will use them for, but that was a deal!