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Thread: Recharge port, 616 and you

  1. #11
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    Yes. The board doesn't power all three (R, G, and B) at the same time - only one at a time. They're separated by the 3-position slider switch - so if you still want light on each sound bank, they would have to be connected. You won't fry the board, but you won't get a lot of power out of the LED.

    As for the neg, I pulled the wires off mine a long time ago - but it's labled "GND" for ground.

    just a thought... would this be considered multiple sound banks?

  2. #12

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    Wow I'm a knucklehead. I just realized what you said . Duh! I am not going to connect those at all since I am going to run the LED from the battery (resisted)

    Anyway after looking at another pic that Arm posted it looks like he chaged his wiring seyup on his DPDT switch. Looks like he has the 2 connectors from the 616 board going to the 1st 2 connectors on the switch (on one side and then the other connectors on the other side)

    Based on the wiring diagram is there a way you can show me where I will connect the appropriate wires to the switch?

    I'll get a diagram to show you what I'm planning>>. Here we go: The thing I'm not sure about is if I should have the LED and the Battery soldered to only one terminal on the DPDT switch.
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    Last edited by Dark Navel; 05-18-2008 at 09:11 PM.

  3. #13

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    Well the diagram's working..God I suck at this electronic ^%&%..Good thing I save all of these pics afterwards so I can have something to base a build on. (electronically that is)

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dark Navel View Post
    Well the diagram's working..God I suck at this electronic ^%&%..Good thing I save all of these pics afterwards so I can have something to base a build on. (electronically that is)
    Haha! Good to hear. I was going to tell you to just try it anyway... but I see you already did. Good on you and congratulations on a small but meaningful victory!

  5. #15

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    Based on the 2nd diagram that eastern made, does is really matter where I hook up the battery pack to the recharge port? It looks like he wants me to hook up the batt pack directly to the recharge port, and then connect/splice the other + & -wires coming from the LED/switch and the 616 board to the battery wires.

    Can I connect the LED and 616 wires directly to the recharge port as well instead of splicing them into the batt wires or will this cause a problem? I have the 2 diagrams: The 1st has the LED/board wired spliced into the battery wires & the second has the wires connected directly to the legs of the recharge port...Again does it matter one way or the other?

    Just want to make sure I have all my bases covered because last time I tried doing this it didn't work.
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    Last edited by Dark Navel; 05-20-2008 at 09:00 AM.

  6. #16

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    Need your help on this recharge port hookup. I think my new sig will read..."God!! I suck!!"

  7. #17
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    The negs have to be separate. like this...

    the "switch" connects the two negative legs.

    ...and stop beating yourself up... you're getting this just fine.
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  8. #18

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    Yeah..I actually haven't hooked it all up yet but hope to tonight. When I said I got the pic to work I meant I got it to display on the thread/post. I'll just reference your last document when I make the connections. Lot's of spaggetti for the 1st connections and then when it works I'll re-adjust to make it nice and clean inside the hilt.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dark Navel View Post
    Lot's of spaggetti for the 1st connections...
    Spaghetti... I love that term... always makes me laugh!

    Good Luck!

  10. #20

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    Well we have spaghetti! And oh yeah it's working too..One minor change, you want to connect the speaker wires to the red and brown wires coming from the 616 board. In the original diagram it was connected to the black and brown. The recharge port diagram works as well...so for those that are looking to connect a resisted LUX III and SW-616 soundbaord (for sound only) then here are the working diagrams.

    REMEMBER: DO NOT go over 6V total or you will fry your soundcard..The MR soundcards can't handle over 6V. I am being redundant and I know it's been said in other posts but I want to reiterate that more than 6V WILL FRY the soundcard.

    Thanks for the help eastern, I really appreciate it. I also attached a teaser of the build I'm working on. Props to Frost that made the original design but I am going to make some modifications further down the hilt and to the pomell as well.
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    Last edited by Dark Navel; 05-20-2008 at 07:25 PM.

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