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Thread: Recharge port, 616 and you

  1. #1
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    Post Recharge port, 616 and you

    okay... tracking check

    DN, so you want to run a 616 and a separate resistored LED set-up with the recharge port as the main switch AND STILL useable as a recharge port, right?

    xl, you also want to use a 616 but with PL driver, PLI, and recharge port but with a conventional DPDT slider switch, correcto? no?

  2. #2

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    Sorry I wasn't clear. I want the recharge port just as a recharge port for the NIMH batts. I will have a seperate switch for the power on/off whether it be a SPST, DPDT etc.

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    Just as a warning... it *might* be a bad idea to allow the board to function while the saber is recharging.

    Now obviously, you can clearly switch it OFF... and THEN plug into your port, but... I'm just saying--with the possibility of the on/off switch getting triggered... it COULD be bad for the board. Maybe.

    So, in general, if you're using a driver board with rechargeables... it's always good if the recharge port also acts to cut the power to the board and all components, PERIOD.
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    Yeah, I'm game for anything..My daughter and wife know not to touch my "toys" and I am not going near the hilt while it's charging but I'm game to anything in order to get the batteries to charge with a functioning recharge port with the setup that I mentioned.

    Like I stated before, I tried setting up a recharge port before and I ran into all types of problems. I have read the threads and posts but I guess I just can't grab the concept of how to actually wire this thing up. I am a picture person. Give me something to copy and I can do it. I guess that why my Dooku saber turned out as well as it did.

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    DN, this is Armonfire's Fury saber http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ead.php?t=4252
    it has great pictures, and he wired it pretty much how I was going to tell you. He soldered the DPDT switch to the back of the switch on the board. His LED setup is also the same, just with a puck instead of a resistor. Try this first. If you can get this setup to work, then the recharge port will be easy.

    [waiting... got it working? Good.]

    The battery leads should split - two red and two black - so that it feeds both the 616 curcuit and and LED circuit. The recharge port will go between the battery and the spot where the battery leads split from two to four.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6

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    holy moley. With those diagrams, I feel confident enough to do that. I'll probably raid a 616 to give my Tackle Dummy sound. I have reason to believe I'm one of the lucky ones to get a CF 4.0 (no notification it's shipped yet, but it's not the end of May, either, so I'm not going to poke Erv to find out for sure yet), and that's going into the Graflex. and whenever we see Ultras, that'll go into my fiancee's saber, and possibly my MHS, if I can get two.
    "In the battle with one's self, there can be no winner, for the victor and vanquished are one and the same"

    -Me

  7. #7

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    Now THAT is what I was looking for. Thank you VERY much!! Guess I'll go back to finishing this saber. Thanks again!

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    you're welcome

    ...and xl, got a cool idea for your's... standby a bit...
    Last edited by eastern57; 05-17-2008 at 11:01 AM.

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    Thumbs up

    xl97,

    I looked at your setup, and for the most part, it's good - especially since you decided to use an MR sound board.

    Here's a few suggestions, use them if you want, but your set-up (when using the MR instead of a hasbro) WILL work.

    I moved to PLI to the recharge port connection - this way, the PLI comes on when the when you remove the recharge plug... kinda like the idle LED on CF... only it's a bargraph.

    Also, the momentary tactile pushbutton can be used to trigger both the clash/lockup on the LED driver AND the hit sensor on the sound board (aka clash sensor). If this were MY set-up, I'd actually use the clash sensor instead of the momentary tactile.

    Lastly, since you're going to use a recharge port as a safety off, you won't need the "blade removal switch", so, you can just bridge the two solder pads with solder.

    Good luck!
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  10. #10

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    Ok..I'm being bad for posting this question here but what the heck...When I go and wire up the LED to the SW-616 board do I connect the RGB wires together making that my positive and then the brown wire coming from the bundle will be my negative? Eastern 's drwing were very clear except for this small issue.

    Looks like there are 6 wires coming from the connector on the board that go to the LED and the clash sensor. Red, gren and blue going to the LED as is the brown wire and then the yellow and orange wire going to the clash sensor. (When looking at the baord it says: (From top to bottom); Red, Green, Blue, GND, Hit, VCC.

    Also, when trying to fugure out how Arm on Fire wired his board he said he used the top right 1st and 2nd leads on the 616 board to connect to his DPDT switch but then he has them wired to the first pins. I though with a DPDT switch you would want these on the same side, + & - and then for the 1sr and 2nd connector on the DPDT switch you would have your + & - coming from the battery LED or what have you.

    I want to make sure I don't fry this board.
    Last edited by Dark Navel; 05-18-2008 at 08:46 PM.

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