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Thread: Recharge port, 616 and you

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  1. #1
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    Post Recharge port, 616 and you

    okay... tracking check

    DN, so you want to run a 616 and a separate resistored LED set-up with the recharge port as the main switch AND STILL useable as a recharge port, right?

    xl, you also want to use a 616 but with PL driver, PLI, and recharge port but with a conventional DPDT slider switch, correcto? no?

  2. #2

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    Sorry I wasn't clear. I want the recharge port just as a recharge port for the NIMH batts. I will have a seperate switch for the power on/off whether it be a SPST, DPDT etc.

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    Council Member Novastar's Avatar
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    Just as a warning... it *might* be a bad idea to allow the board to function while the saber is recharging.

    Now obviously, you can clearly switch it OFF... and THEN plug into your port, but... I'm just saying--with the possibility of the on/off switch getting triggered... it COULD be bad for the board. Maybe.

    So, in general, if you're using a driver board with rechargeables... it's always good if the recharge port also acts to cut the power to the board and all components, PERIOD.
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  4. #4

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    Yeah, I'm game for anything..My daughter and wife know not to touch my "toys" and I am not going near the hilt while it's charging but I'm game to anything in order to get the batteries to charge with a functioning recharge port with the setup that I mentioned.

    Like I stated before, I tried setting up a recharge port before and I ran into all types of problems. I have read the threads and posts but I guess I just can't grab the concept of how to actually wire this thing up. I am a picture person. Give me something to copy and I can do it. I guess that why my Dooku saber turned out as well as it did.

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    DN, this is Armonfire's Fury saber http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ead.php?t=4252
    it has great pictures, and he wired it pretty much how I was going to tell you. He soldered the DPDT switch to the back of the switch on the board. His LED setup is also the same, just with a puck instead of a resistor. Try this first. If you can get this setup to work, then the recharge port will be easy.

    [waiting... got it working? Good.]

    The battery leads should split - two red and two black - so that it feeds both the 616 curcuit and and LED circuit. The recharge port will go between the battery and the spot where the battery leads split from two to four.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6

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    holy moley. With those diagrams, I feel confident enough to do that. I'll probably raid a 616 to give my Tackle Dummy sound. I have reason to believe I'm one of the lucky ones to get a CF 4.0 (no notification it's shipped yet, but it's not the end of May, either, so I'm not going to poke Erv to find out for sure yet), and that's going into the Graflex. and whenever we see Ultras, that'll go into my fiancee's saber, and possibly my MHS, if I can get two.
    "In the battle with one's self, there can be no winner, for the victor and vanquished are one and the same"

    -Me

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