Corbin's NEW driver

**B5813** · 05-06-2008, 08:09 PM

Is this why there are no more of the 3W driver boards in the store?... getting ready to replace them with the new technology?

**Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie** · 05-06-2008, 09:33 PM

Fantastic! This is exactly what I need for my next project.

Thanks, Corbin!

**Hasid Lafre** · 05-06-2008, 10:31 PM

The reasion why they were nolonger in stock is cause the manufactur stopted making them period. Becides corbins been planning a replacment for a while from what I remember.

**Count Malik** · 05-07-2008, 07:58 AM

This could help dearly to some of my friends sabers.

This is very nice to hear!

**Hasid Lafre** · 05-07-2008, 10:04 AM

I got a plan for this in a saber and a non saber project. THANKS CORBIN!

**Corbin_Das** · 05-13-2008, 10:23 PM

Hi again
To answer your question, the boards will be available in either a latching model or a momentary model........ The shimmer effect is pretty much always on, though if someone wanted one without that feature, please contact me and I could have one custom programmed without that.......ETA is pretty much any time now, as in a few days........

Here's some other specs:

Originally, I was looking at 24V max input with 16V max output, but we upped that a little...

30V max input. Max output voltage is 25V worth of LEDs. <0.2mA when asleep.

Max output 1.2A when 'clashing' otherwise 1A average output while shimmering. I say "average" because the Pulsed Width Modulation (PWM) shimmers the LED back and forth between overdriving the LED and underdriving it, with the average being 1A. Our eyes can't see the shimmer normally (like my original driver), though with the shimmer effect enabled, you CAN see a slight fluctuation.
The original driver had a PWM that fluctuated between 800mA and 1200mA, I believe. It happened faster than you could see though, so our eyes only picked up the brighter intensity. This driver it still in that range, but it's not limited to bouncing back and forth between those two amperages. It has a range that it goes back and forth between, but at a slow enough rate so that it looks more "alive". I hope that makes sense.

Corbin

**Dark Navel** · 05-23-2008, 11:45 AM

The new boards are here! The new boards are here!

(Anyone remember Steve Martin in The Jerk??) LOL

**morpheus1977** · 05-23-2008, 12:34 PM

Originally Posted by Dark Navel

The new boards are here! The new boards are here!

(Anyone remember Steve Martin in The Jerk??) LOL

Classic movie...
I know I am excited also LOL. I just ordered my first Cobrin board (latching) So I noticed they are a little different would this be wired up like the originals? My plan is to wire it up with a FX sound board while using a clash sensor. I belive I need two one for the Driver and one for the FX board? I hope its as easy as following the wiring diagrams I have seen on the other threads here.

**eastern57** · 05-23-2008, 12:55 PM

Originally Posted by morpheus1977

My plan is to wire it up with a FX sound board while using a clash sensor. I belive I need two one for the Driver and one for the FX board? I hope its as easy as following the wiring diagrams I have seen on the other threads here.

think about this a second:

If you had one for each board, they would both be doing their own thing inside the jiggling hilt - separately.

[pauses for effect]

See where I'm going with this? If you want the clash sound to sync with the clash flicker, what's the most obvious solution?

**morpheus1977** · 05-23-2008, 01:08 PM

Originally Posted by eastern57

think about this a second:

If you had one for each board, they would both be doing their own thing inside the jiggling hilt - separately.

[pauses for effect]

See where I'm going with this? If you want the clash sound to sync with the clash flicker, what's the most obvious solution?

you would want to wire it to the driver. But I remember reading that you needed two clash sensors? Like this diagram.