Any advice for straighter dremel cuts?

[darthdan]

I'm relatively happy with my dremeled pieces, but they could always be cleaner. Does anyone have any advice on how to make the cuts lazer straight?

[xl97]

I try to use a file.. and I always VISE my parts to keep it stable..

I make my marker lines and always cut on the INSIDE of them.. (short of what I wanted in the end)..and file my way to the edges..


I thought someone was going to post the UBER, SUPER SECRET TIPS on how to cut lazer straight with a dremel?

Where did that go?

I cant remeber who it was off hand.. (made the brass & black saber not too long back).. grrr

[xwingband]

That was Jonitus that made that saber.

Those tips are right on par. Slow! It will take many passes. Cut inside and then come back with files. Taping wouldn't hurt either. If you bounce the cutting disk it will help a bit to minimize scratches.

[xl97]

Oh..yes Jonitus.. thanks..

Did he ever come back and post his step-by-step? (I must have missed it then)..

also not to be a thread highjacker.. (and steal xwing away)..

x-

I posted a new wiring diagram in the thread we talked about last night.. hoping I was making the correct changes.

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...5177#post85177

Im still unclear about the Hasbro & Plecter driver usage together.. I changed the main switch to a DPDT slide switch.. but will the nasbro work with that since it came with a momentary?

lol.. the more I 'learn' (cough).. the more confused I get, more questions seem to make themself apparent..LOL

[Darth Lars]

There are occasions where the dremel is not the best tool for the job. For straight cuts, a razor saw in a miter box or the use of a pipe cutter is better.

[grayven]

What I do is draw my design on some clear stick-back. I then apply it to the sink-tube.
The sticky back does a few things for me. It gives me good lines to follow my cut with, It helps guide the blade a little after you cut through it (first pass) and it helps stop any accidental scratches from slips or bouncing out of cut line, Kinda of a protector.
I always take about three to four good trace cuts over the cut lines to set a good grooved cut path. Once I got a good grooved cut path I start to dig in and let the blade do the work.

Grayven

[DARTH KALEL]

make sure your using the right cutting wheel too, most will work few are great, the diamond carbide one is great but you have to have a fim grip and go slow, I don't tape anything sounds like a great idea though, I just always cut inside like he was saying and then use the grinding wheel to shave it down and bevel the edges.

[Boomsticksweets]

I have a titanium drill bit. How is that for cutting out straight lines? I worry about them being straight but the file idea sounds good. WHat type of file should I use?

[DARTH KALEL]

just because something is titanium or diamond doesn't really mean it's going to cut better. I always try to make my first cuts real thin and do alot of corner markings and grooves before even starting anything. Use high speed setting and go slow, your titanium drill should work fine, but you will have to keep the blade going really fast, and don't let it slow down, I.E don't let it get pinched or binded. Remember it's easier to do rough cuts and smooth out later then to try to be perfect, and a grinding wheel is always a huge help no matter the size. I just use one of the generic metal files, it's about 12" long and about 1" wide, longer piece is easier to get even strokes and keep everything kinda equal.

[Boomsticksweets]

Well the main reason I wanted to use the titanium drill cutter id do I could get a matched set through both sides at once.

What I might do is just drill straight through in two spots, then use that Dremel diamond carbide wheel for the straight cuts.

Thoughts/tips/questions/comments?