LUX III with Hasbro Board?

[Boomsticksweets]

OK, I have been sifting through the forums and can't seem to find the information I am looking for.

I want to buy this:

Build Your Own
Luxeon III Electronics Kit
Price: $36.19

* Collimator Lens 5° viewing angle
* SPST Push on/off - Mom switch with black button
* Luxeon III/V Lens Holder
* 4AAA battery holder
* BuckPuck 1000mA
* Royal Blue

To go into a Double threaded hilt style 4.

I want to add the sound board from either my Hasbro Obi-wan (feel the force version) or my Hasbro Build Your Own Lightsaber.

My questions are:

Since the Obi-wan runs on 3AA and the BYOL runs on 2 C's; what should I use has a power source, depending on which board I use?

Also, should I wire the LUX III LED directly through the board?

Do I need the BuckPuck 1000ma?

Also any wiring diagrams for doing this setup would be most appreciated because I can't seem to find the diagram for what I am attempting.


Any help/comments/tips/ideas etc. would be welcome.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Your best bet for sound with the Hasbro boards you have listed there would be the Obi-wan board, as it can handle the 6 volts from the battery pack in the electronics kit. the other board might work with it for awhile, but I wouldn't recommend it, because it was intended for 3 volts. You can run a Lux III directly from the hasbro board's leads as well, and you don't need to use the resistor in the kit if you go with that set-up.

There are also some wiring diagrams for Hasbro boards in the Saber Sound Forum, but you'll have to some digging to find them.

[Boomsticksweets]

Actually I think I will use one of the newer extending lightsabers by Hasbro.

And tips/comments/tricks on using one of those?

Also does it matter which one I get?

Also any links to a wiring diagram for one of them or for integrating a Luxeon III into it would be exceptionally appreciated.



And thanks for the help Jay-gonn!

[LAN-ED-TUL]

for diagrams, try lookin in the WIRING DIAGRAMS section.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

There aren't very many in there anymore, Lan, I just checked...I think some of them got lost in the transition to the new forums. There a re a few in the Corbin diagrams thread Hasid posted, but you'd have to remove the wiring for the Corbin boards.

This thread may be helpful if you think you're going to use a spring-action saber:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ead.php?t=2761

There are pics in there of one dis-mantled. You might also find a few threads in the saber sound forum that will have instructions, if not pictures/diagrams for what you're looking for. If you're going to take it apart yourself, just make sure you make note on what each wire was hooked to in the Hasbro saber; they'll pretty much go in the same place win the custom saber as well.

[Boomsticksweets]

This is my final draft as to what my saber will look like, though I think I will cut out two lines with my titanium drill saw in the 2in connector piece and make an unlit crystal focus piece.

Also is that a good place for a blade retention screw? Mainly I am wondering if it will be workable there.

Same goes for the button, since I will be paying for the recessed button hole.


Other than that...

Questions/comments/concerns/tips/tricks/thoughts anyone?


BTW: The weird L-shaped thing near the button hole will be a d-ring. And as for battery pack accessibility, I would access it by unscrewing the hilt at the base of the female connector.

[Er Dan Gill]

Hi Boomsticksweets, I took the liberty of doing a new render for you, and changed a few things as well.

The location of your switch wont work that close to the pommel, you would have to drill through the threads. My suggestion would be to mount it in the middle section, and change it from a two inch, to a three inch. I have a two inch section on my hilt, and once every thing is threaded in there isn't more than about a half inch, maybe three quarters of working space available. For your thumb screw, just make sure its on the blade holder, and in a spot that will be comfortable for you.
Over all though, thats a pretty slick design

[Boomsticksweets]

Hey Er Dan! Thanks for the awesome render! I just wonder that if I increase the connector to 3", would I still be able to add the unlit crystal focus idea i had? It would be using one of the acrylic crystals that the shop sells so it wouldn't be too big. Or would the base of the button be to big?

Also, how long of a screw should I use for the blade holder? I don't know about using the thumbscrew though. I was thinking of using a button head screw so as to slim the profile down and remove as many restriction to spinning as possible as I will be adding a 38" Corbin style battle blade for dueling purposes. Though the speed of blade insertion/removal might be worth it...

Also, how long should the screw for the d-ring be so as to still facilitate battery removal, unless you think unscrewing it at the base of the female connector would be better. (though I think I like that idea haha)

BTW: I was thinking of using 8/32 drill and tap for the screws. would a different size be better?

Also thermal tape on the LED between it and the heatsink? Is it available at Home Depot? (Want to avoid the LED short I have been reading about)

[Boomsticksweets]

With d-ring and unlit crystal focus chamber as mentioned above. (A titanium drill saw is what I would be using) (though I am worried about how straight I could cut it). I was thinking that the chamber in there would add to the design.

[Hasid Lafre]

if you go with sound your not gonna have room for a crystal chamber.