Info about 10W LedEngin Green LED (A couple of pics)

[DARTH KALEL]

actually I used an old pair of hippy sunglasses to get purple it's a great color and bright but I still need to cut the lense to fit. here is a makeshift pic with low batteries. this is a P4 240 lumens, first pic with one filter second with two, I get a really good color with the glasses but hard to take a pic of this is with Tim's filters and low batts as I said.

[savyas]

So I finally got around to testing the RGGB 10W http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine....=897-LZ420MC10

I hooked up the two green's in series using a 1A buckpuck.. to get it to pull 1A, I had to up the voltage to about 8.1V. I also hooked it up with a 700ma buckpuck, and to get it to pull 700ma current across both green's I had to up the voltage to somewhere around 7.8V.

So I'm not believing the datasheet's 6.4V claim for green at 700ma.. worse, it doesn't look like I'll be able to drive both greens and a blue (or even red) for clash flash on a CF4 card.

[savyas]

2 greens and blue in series at 1A drew 11.8V. so blue adds 3.7V (spec says 3.7)
2 breens and red in series at 1A drew 10.5V so red adds 2.4V (spec says 2.6)
and the 2 greens at 8.1V (spec says 7.6)


so at 10.5V, I might could make a sickly orangish-green blade.. but 11.8V for a blue-green is going to be more of a challenge.

[thejedilestat]

that looks cool Green is my fave color i prolly wouldent have ben as impressed if it was another color


is that a vader shroud over the emiter?


verry cool great work

[TroyO]

Sayas, The 7.6V is Typical... it does list 8.8v as the max@700 MA. That's a bummer... if you'd had a chip that leaned more towards the lower side you would have been fine. With the CF, If you used K2 mode @1.5A you could maybe wire the 2 green LEDS in parallel, so each would get 750MA@4.1V?

I keep coming back to the idea of using 5K sliders to control 3 or 4 buckpucks. (2X Buckpuck for green, one each Red and Blue.)

Lestat, that is a vader emiter shroud, hijacked from the MR616 construction set. I was more concerned with the tech aspect of it, so I went kinda lazy on detailing it, LOL.

[savyas]

indeed. I ended up wiring the two green's in parallel powered by the primary LED output of a CF4 at 1.5A and the blue and red in series powered by a power extender from the clash flash output of the CF. It looked really cool the way the blue and red quickly flashed and then the light turned to a white... but the CF card's clash output was shorted somewhere (most likely in the PIC) - so it's headed back to Erv for some repairs.

I'll post details pics and wiring diagrams when the CF returns.

[Vardarac]

Wow. That is bright.

My two concerns would be heat and battery life. If this sucker is pulling a decavolt, that's gotta be killing the battery, unless you've got some serious mAh on it. (Granted, I'm still learning the whole "electronics" thing, so take that as you will.) The other concern is heat. Sure, for a lot of the time, 20 minutes is plenty. But at major cons (Dragon*Con, I'm looking at you!) you might want or need the saber on for longer periods of time. If the holder is that warm to the touch after that long, I'd wonder if there's not a way to cool it more. Maybe drill out some holes around the blade holder right above the LED to get more air flow? (I'm pretty sure liquid cooling isn't an option here. )

What if we stuck a little polycarbonate tank of water in there capped with a piece of metal and stuck it on the heatsink, then cut some air holes and stuck a miniature fan rigged to sound like a lightsaber when turned on to point at this contraption inside?

[savyas]

I did say I'd post some wiring diagrams and such.. I admit it, I'm a lazy bastard and haven't done so..

but.. being a lazy bastard, I can at least show you some bench testing pics of how I wired up the ledengine RGGB, and an extremely crappy video of the results.

Wiring:
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~rick/sabers/IMG_4458.JPG
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~rick/sabers/IMG_4460.JPG

Video: (ignore the giggling baby in the background. I should really just mute the sound, but again, I'm too lazy for that).. flash in this video was triggered by blaster deflect (CF Aux), but clash flashes the same. Blade lockup, unfortunately, does not trigger the red and blue LED's through the extender.
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~rick/sabers/ledengine.mov

I ended up powering this with 2*18650's Li-Ion. When I gave it more voltage, the clash/blaster deflect was just too red/purple.. and sticking a third or fourth Li-Ion was just too space intensive. I'll probably end up sticking a POT inline on the blue-red chain to tune things a bit more to my liking in the long run, but this video shows it as is on my first attempt.

You might need to refresh the page to get the pictures and movies fully loaded. It's a crappy webserver, but heck... it's free.

[Novastar]

Pretty darn cool to ME!

Nice work Sayyas... 10 stars out of 10 in my opinion!