Info about 10W LedEngin Green LED (A couple of pics)

[TroyO]

Couple of details.... guys, when I say hot I mean black car on a sunny day hot, not "ohhhh crap, something is gonna melt!" hot. I think, when I turned it off it had reached kind of it's max heat.... where the heat displaced equaled the heat generated. I don't think it would have gotten much, if any hotter. I could hold and use it easily, as long as I held the handle end and not the emitter. I was a little worried if the emitter was that hot the actual LED might be a lot hotter and I didn't want to break my new toy on it's inagural run.

It's a LED Engin green, BIN unknown. I'm guessing it's the midlle bin. Mouser has it listed at 425 Lumens, presumably at the nominal rating of 700 MA. It's on a typical star base, except it has solder pads for each of the 4 LEDs seperatly. That is important, it allows you to get to each one individually. As ERV pointed out, that could mean uber-cool things for RGB or RGBA sabers!

Voltage.... the rated forward voltage of the LED is somewhere between 12.8 and 15.7V with all 4 of the LED's connected in SERIES. To let me get away with a feasible battery pack, I have 2 sets of LEDs connected in series. Each Buckpuck drives only 2 of the LEDs, with a forward voltage of 6.4 to 7.85 volts. Well within the range of an 8 cell NiMh pack.

The batteries themselves... fairly conventional. 8 Cell NiMh AA sized batteries, 2600 MAH. I'm using a flat 4 battery pack, and a square 4 battery pack like the ones from Radio Shack to hold the batteries. The two packs are just for placement issues... the sound board and my Op-amp Buckpuck controller are on top of the flat 4 battery pack.

Link to the LED spec sheet:
http://www.ledengin.com/products/10wLZ/LZ4-00G110.pdf

Link to the MCPCB spec sheet, shows how you can solder to each LED inividually and run any series/paralel config you want.

http://ledengin.com/products/appnote...CPCBapNote.pdf

So... I'm only claiming 425 lumens on this one.

Now, the next one... well, LOL I have some ideas. ;-P

(How about driving with a CF at 1 amp, and using the Power Extenders to activate a buckpuck @ 1 amp for the second set?) 2 Amps @ 7.2V (Average FV for this) and you'd be putting out 14.4 Watts..... Booyah! Might need a fan for that, though. )

[Marsupial]

man I wouldnt try a purple filter with 700 lumen led,it will just wash it out, ive tryed an led at 350-400 lumens and it just washed most of my filters out. You should purchase an R bin seoul like xwing has been talking about. 300 luemens, would be perfect

What filters did you use?

there are Lee filters that I believe would do good results.

You know, some are ment for way stronger lights then leds.

[LeMoel]

I used a Luxeon endor rebel white, i think it was like 400 lumens, I tryed all the normal purple filters, medium purple,rose purple, magneta, deep purple. It made the darker purples look better but honestly if you want a good filtered purple I would go with the Seoul P4(240 lumen) or the Lamina Atlas led(270 lumen)

use either the ultra blade or Tim's style or xwings nylon might look decent also.

240-300 lumens is the best for filtering Ive found.

But if you really want to make a purple saber I would go with the prolight RGB led, its a true purple. And its a full purple. Its as bright as a 3 watt I think its the best right no untill there's optics for the endor rebel RGB, here's some pictures

Note : this is with a crappy diffusion blade that comes with the MR construction kit. the blade would be even brighter and fuller with an ultra

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...s/100_1263.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...s/100_1264.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...s/100_1265.jpg

[Marsupial]

I have a Cree Q5 (220 lumens?) and all I got was washed out purple... or not bright ennough.

Maybe you're right. I should try lesser leds. lol.

[Zero Unit]

Heh, that's awesome. Glad to see that those LEDs I found turned out alright.

Now, the next one... well, LOL I have some ideas. ;-P

How 'bout one of those 10W UV?

[Hasid Lafre]

You willneed a uv reactive blade where the blade will glow. Normally it will less than a luxIII filtered.

Theres a discussion at fsxabers about this.

[Malaki Skywalker]

Heh, that's awesome. Glad to see that those LEDs I found turned out alright.



How 'bout one of those 10W UV?

UV is also dangerous, even with LED's...

[Zero Unit]

You willneed a uv reactive blade where the blade will glow. Normally it will less than a luxIII filtered.

Theres a discussion at fsxabers about this.

True, and I have read the thread over at FX with great interest. However, the 10W UV LEDEngine LEDs are about as bright as the current Royal Blue LED (750mW, I believe, for the K2), which means a UV reactive blade isn't entirely necessary, just one with a coating to block the UV rays (I like to keep my eyes too).

[LeMoel]

I have a Cree Q5 (220 lumens?) and all I got was washed out purple... or not bright ennough.

Maybe you're right. I should try lesser leds. lol.

Well I get good results from the240-270 lumens, try the magical magneta lee filter #795 its good or decent, purple is just a tough color to acheive, I like the RGB purple

[LeMoel]

Heh, that's awesome. Glad to see that those LEDs I found turned out alright.



How 'bout one of those 10W UV?

Now UV isn't Purple, Its a dark blue with a tad bit of purple in it, Now im not saying that it isnt a good color but its not purple

check out my UV my practice saber with 10 5mm UV leds