Green K2 and how to drive it...

[Sithblade]

Hi all

I'm building my first saber, and am using a green K2. It came with a circular board with a couple of chips and resistors on it but I can't tell you more than that! I'm new to all this and still trying to understand the electrics side of it.

Anyway, the LED is waaaay brighter when run via this little gizmo than running it directly off some AAA batteries, so I assumed it was stepping the voltage down to increase the current (was I wrong to assume that? Dunno!) However I've tested the voltage on the output to the LED and it's 6v - the same as the input. I haven't tested current as I've already soldered the joints and it would need to be in series.

So my questions are...

Will I blow the LED by running it at 6v? It only needs about 3.6v according to the charts.

Am I getting the best out of the LED, or would I be better off ordering a buckpuck? If so, which buckpuck do I need as there are dozens of them...

This saber is more of a learning project for me, as I'd like to build a second one using a LuxV and CF but I thought I'd be better off frying some cheaper parts before I tackle that...

[Novastar]

Photos of this little "circle" would be nice, but my guess is that I know what kind of driver that is.

If it *IS* a driver, you probably do NOT need to worry about giving it 6v... in fact, that's probably just fine. Probably.

However, AAA cells may NOT be capable of giving the LED the current draw it needs. It depends on whether or not you have a driver there, too.

For the record, a green K2 has a mfc. specification of 1500ma max continuous current, and a forward voltage around 3.7v or so. Giving the LED more than 4v or so will destroy it... but that would only be if you were giving the LED those volts DIRECTLY, or asking a driver to provide some giant voltage or 2A of current or what not.

If you're using 6v with a driver with a green K2... it should be fine if the current is regulated to 1A or 1.5A.

[Sithblade]

Hi Novastar

Thanks for the advice, it's much appreciated. I have already heatshrinked the regulator but let me have a hunt around to see if I can find a photo of it anywhere. When I hooked up the 4 x AAA pack to the regulator, there was 6v across the output wires which are now on the LED. It doesn't seem to be running hot, and the LED is much brighter through the regulator/resistor/driver but I suppose that doesn't mean that I'm getting the best out of it *or* that it won't blow sooner or later.

No doubt I'd get better results with a buckpuck but the only thing putting me off that is that I'd need 2 x 700ma buckpucks and I wanted to keep this saber cheap as it's a learning project. My next saber will be a LuxV and I'll be happy to throw more money at that one to get the right components. Might even splash out on an MHS hilt!

By the way it was your Green K2 on the 'Xmas' video which sold me on this LED. Hopefully I'll be able to include a CF in my next saber as I think the sound fonts you demonstrated are just incredible.

[LeMoel]

hey nova star does AA batteries give the same amount of power to the led as AAA batteries?

[xwingband]

hey nova star does AA batteries give the same amount of power to the led as AAA batteries?

Because they're the same voltage??? They're size is just an indication of runtimes. Like C size batteries (alkaline) are 1.5V too... but they have a huge capacity compared to an AAA.