Help With Wiring Hasbro Qui-Gon to Corbin's Driver

[simi]

I'm kind of stuck right now. I am trying to solder a Hasbro Qui-Gon Jinn sound board to Corbin's 3 watt driver. I found these pictures which are an exact duplicate of my sound board. I don't know what wires go to what, LED, battery, etc. So I am asking for help identifing them.

I have read that to use a FX sound board with Corbin's driver, you'll need a Corbin's latching driver. I then read an entry from Lord Maul explaining that since Hasbro boards are momentary, you'll need Corbin's momentary driver. I own one of each, should I be using the latching or momentary driver with Corbin's board then?

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u48/simified/2-1.jpg


http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u...8d6396c0_b.jpg

[Kant Lavar]

From the pictures, I'd say the blue & black pair are going to the light, the blue and orange are the speaker (which is the round sliver do-hickey), and the black and red are your battery terminals. Not sure what the white one is, but my guess would be ground.

Granted, this is just based off looking at the pictures and what's written on them, so take this for what it's worth. But that's my bet as to what's what.

Insofar as the black cylinder goes, I'm not sure, but if your board has it, or it doesn't but is otherwise identical (i.e. it doesn't look like something broke off), I'd say don't worry about it.

[simi]

I'm guessing the black cylinder is a motion or clash sensor. If it is, it is in a weird spot. The clash and motion sensors were 2 seperate devices in my Luke ROTJ Hasbro saber. This one didn't have any attached to it, which is why I am guessing it is a motion, clash, or combonation sensor.

Do you know what type of board and switch I should use?

[Atomic]

The experts will hopefully chime in, but I believe MR boards are latching and Hasbro boards are momentary. From the looks of the diagrams in the threads below, you need a momentary DPSTswitch to run both, but that's the area I'm most gray on.

[simi]

Lmao....yeah, I had a copy of that diagram saved on my computer. I was using it for my Hasbro Luke ROTJ but I think I fried it. I had it working properly except there was no sound and it stayed on despite pressing the on/off switch. I was using Corbin's latching board though so maybe that is why the on/off switch didn't work. Regardless, that was the reason I took apart my Jinn saber.

So I'll stick with the momentary board then. The momentary switches are the ones that do not click when you press them, they just pop back up correct?

So you're saying the blue and black wires are for the LED? I thought the LED was soldered from Corbin's board as opposed to the sound board.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u48/simified/3.jpg

[Kant Lavar]

It might be - I've never seen Corbin's board. Maybe they would go to the power terminals of the Corbin board? But I can see that one of that pair (the black) is labeled "LAMP-".