Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 11 to 16 of 16

Thread: Help With Wiring Hasbro Qui-Gon to Corbin's Driver

  1. #11


    I finally had time to try the wiring set up you suggested. That combination of wires will not do
    anything, I made a diagram on how I have it currently soldered.
    Last edited by simi; 04-05-2008 at 02:28 AM.

  2. #12


    Well, the pictures I have of the wiring on the saber that board was in don't really show much...just a jumble of wires...I replaced that board with an MR mostly because they are much easier to work with than the hasbro...those have too many common connections in them with the screw-on emitters and contacts to be able to keep it straight what the wires are for. I guess I'd PM x-wing your diagram and see what he says...he's used more Hasbro's than I have.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  3. #13
    Council Member
    Jedi Council Member
    xwingband's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    The training simulators, duh!


    Quote Originally Posted by Jay-gon Jinn View Post
    X-wing has fried many of these when giving them more than that.
    Yes I did... I have a bag of well over a dozen at home. The Qui-gon was one I was sad about.

    On the last drawing, the lamp neg is the only one you will not use. The qui gon used a bulb. It got the positive straight from the batteries to the bulb.

    SOOOO... the other one you have marked as going no where is your positive battery. Hence the reason it doesn't work, it's not getting power. The red positive power you have marked going to the speaker should be dropped.

    That should get you in business. I liked the sound of the qui-gon and it's size. I miss that board... it fried randomly. It will take 4.5V no problem though.
    RED LEADER Standing by!

  4. #14


    Thanks X-Wing, I re-wired what I needed to and I finally have it working for the most part. I am using a DPDT toggle switch for the moment until I can find a push button switch. I have to flip the switch to on, then off, then on again for the LED to come on. I have read a few posts where people actually removed the sensor soldered on the sound board and moved it. Is it more beneficial to dettach it from the board or does it really matter? I have an extra motion sensor from my Luke ROTJ and another sensor from my Obi-Wan ROTS, I don't know if one of those would even be better to use than the one currently soldered on Jinn's board. Right now I am only have 2 problems. I have a clash sensor soldered on Corbin's driver. When the unit is on and I tap the sensor, the LED cuts off and stays off instead of shimmering. The other problem is no sound still. I know the speaker is good and I changed it just to be safe but no sound at all. I'd like to have the sensor and sound working but I'd settle for the sound. Did I possibly wire something wrong or maybe fry the board? I am using the 2 original orange and blue wires for the speaker connection. This is my updated diagram.
    Last edited by simi; 04-07-2008 at 04:24 AM.

  5. #15


    Hmmmm....I was hoping someone knew what I can do to get the sound on my board. I have an Obi-Wan ROTS, Anakin ROTS, and Build-Your-Own saber. Has anyone tried to hook up a Corbin's Driver to any of these?

  6. #16


    Reviving an old thread here. I don't know if you found the answer to your problem, simi, but I'm guessing that it stems from trying to use a tactile switch as a DPDT switch. I made the same mistake, and got some funky results. It looks like it can be used that way, but it can't. The challenge is to find a momentary DPDT, and these are not common, apparently. I was lucky enough to find a momentary push-button DPDT, and though I haven't tried it out yet, I'm hoping to use it to join a momentary Corbin with the same Hasbro board you have.


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts