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Thread: Help With Wiring Hasbro Qui-Gon to Corbin's Driver

  1. #1

    Default Help With Wiring Hasbro Qui-Gon to Corbin's Driver

    I'm kind of stuck right now. I am trying to solder a Hasbro Qui-Gon Jinn sound board to Corbin's 3 watt driver. I found these pictures which are an exact duplicate of my sound board. I don't know what wires go to what, LED, battery, etc. So I am asking for help identifing them.

    I have read that to use a FX sound board with Corbin's driver, you'll need a Corbin's latching driver. I then read an entry from Lord Maul explaining that since Hasbro boards are momentary, you'll need Corbin's momentary driver. I own one of each, should I be using the latching or momentary driver with Corbin's board then?

  2. #2


    From the pictures, I'd say the blue & black pair are going to the light, the blue and orange are the speaker (which is the round sliver do-hickey), and the black and red are your battery terminals. Not sure what the white one is, but my guess would be ground.

    Granted, this is just based off looking at the pictures and what's written on them, so take this for what it's worth. But that's my bet as to what's what.

    Insofar as the black cylinder goes, I'm not sure, but if your board has it, or it doesn't but is otherwise identical (i.e. it doesn't look like something broke off), I'd say don't worry about it.

  3. #3


    I'm guessing the black cylinder is a motion or clash sensor. If it is, it is in a weird spot. The clash and motion sensors were 2 seperate devices in my Luke ROTJ Hasbro saber. This one didn't have any attached to it, which is why I am guessing it is a motion, clash, or combonation sensor.

    Do you know what type of board and switch I should use?

  4. #4


    The experts will hopefully chime in, but I believe MR boards are latching and Hasbro boards are momentary. From the looks of the diagrams in the threads below, you need a momentary DPSTswitch to run both, but that's the area I'm most gray on.

  5. #5


    Lmao....yeah, I had a copy of that diagram saved on my computer. I was using it for my Hasbro Luke ROTJ but I think I fried it. I had it working properly except there was no sound and it stayed on despite pressing the on/off switch. I was using Corbin's latching board though so maybe that is why the on/off switch didn't work. Regardless, that was the reason I took apart my Jinn saber.

    So I'll stick with the momentary board then. The momentary switches are the ones that do not click when you press them, they just pop back up correct?

    So you're saying the blue and black wires are for the LED? I thought the LED was soldered from Corbin's board as opposed to the sound board.
    Last edited by simi; 04-04-2008 at 05:24 AM.

  6. #6


    It might be - I've never seen Corbin's board. Maybe they would go to the power terminals of the Corbin board? But I can see that one of that pair (the black) is labeled "LAMP-".

  7. #7


    I had this one working the same as my Luke ROTJ. It came on but again, no sound and the on/off switch (momentary) would not do anything. It just stayed on and turned off when I disconnected the battery. Since the Qui-Gon on the momentary board performed the same way as the Luke on the latching board, I'm starting to think that maybe I didn't fry my Luke board. I can't seem to find the right combination to get it to turn on/off from the switch and produce any sound. It is supposed to hum like and make noises if wired correctly, no?

  8. #8


    I had one of these in my custom saber and I remember the red and white wires were for the switch...the orange wire to the speaker was also wired up as the batt positive, as they had a shared connection in the saber. The same with the positive for the led. The blue was the speaker negative....The black wire between the red and white wires is the battery negative, and the other black wire, I think was the negative to the led...I have some pictures somewhere on my pc that show the wiring...I just need to find them to verify. Also, since this is one of the older boards, it was designed to run with 3 volts...I had mine going on 4.5 and it worked fine...I think I'd avoid giving it any more than that, though. X-wing has fried many of these when giving them more than that.

    Since you're using Corbin's board, you don't really need to worry about what wire should go to led, though.The Corbin board will handle that.
    Last edited by Jay-gon Jinn; 04-04-2008 at 09:37 AM.

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  9. #9


    Thanks, I'll give that a try. So then I don't have to worry about connecting the white wire as well as the LED pos/neg wires from the sound board to anything then? Right now I am running it off of 4 AAA batteries. The diagram I read from Corbin suggests using 5 AA. What is better to use for my application, 4 AAA or 5 AA? If you can find those pix that would be AWESOME!!!

  10. #10


    You'll need to use the red and white wires on the soundboard for the switch, other wise the board may not come on when you tap the switch. But you're right, you don't need to worry about hooking up the led leads to the soundboard. 4 or 5 AAA or AA batteries will probably fry that hasbro likes no more than three of either size battery. You could use five, and install a contact in between the third and fourth battery with a wire soldered to it leading to the hasbro board. I've seen this method used before when running a Lux V with an MR board before.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.


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