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Thread: Jay-gon's Brass saber 2 & 3 (MR Sound/Lux III's)

  1. #41
    Sith Minion 37H4N's Avatar
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    *insert nerdy squeel here*

    I love the first one with the clamp! Get it done and post lit up pics!


    Proud owner of the last two style 6 MHS blade holders!
    <('-'<)(>'-')><('-'<)<('-'<)(>'-')>(>'-')><('-'<)(>'-')>

  2. #42

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    Now I need to work on the switch placement on both sabers. The Parks clamp came with a green circuit board that slides into a slot in the clamp. The problem with it is that it's too shallow in the clamp....I'd prefer it to be closer to the top, so I can mount a switch underneath and cover the switch. Here's what I have for the box and clamp:


    The two black cicuit boards are from some calculator bubbles that I got from a friend of mine. I used the bubbles on my custom saber, and held onto the boards for just such an occasion as this. I could mount one either way in the box:



    The boards on the box will cover up the slide switch that will be mounted to the saber body, and covered by the switchbox. I'll have to drill a hole in the box and widen it to allow for the switch movement.

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  3. #43

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    Sence your gonna use it to cover the switch I would use the 2nd black card(bottem one) but if you were gonna mount a push button in it to where the top of the pluger woud sit slightly higher than the card I would use the middel(first black card).

    Thats how I could do it.

    Or maybe you could set it up to be like on some of the MR Sabers to where the card or whaterver slid with a sliding switch then I would somehow afix the first black card to the top of the sliding switch.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

    Reaganomics not Obamanomics


  4. #44

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    Oh, the black cards are actually the same card, just the top of the card in one pic, and the bottom of the card in the other pic. And I have considered drilling a hole just big enough for the "stick" on the switch to come through and use the card as part of the switch. I still am unsure of what to do with the switch for the clamp on BS#2....I do have some ideas, though.

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  5. #45

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    OH ok, I see. When I looked at the first pic I seen a green card and 2 black ones.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

    Reaganomics not Obamanomics


  6. #46

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    I did a bit more work on the switch box for BS#3...or is this BS#2? Oh well, it's the other brass saber I've got in the works too:


    I drilled a hole in the center of the box then used my rotary tool to carve the hole into more of a slot shape to accomodate the switch post:

    From the bottom:


    I then drilled and tapped two holes for the #4-40 mounting screws and mounted the switch:

    From the top, you can see the ends of the screws, but they are just about at the right height that they won't interfere with the cicuit board after I apply that:


    The next step is to mark the location on the brass sleeve for mounting to the hilt, and also to make a slot for the switch bottom to clear the hilt, so I lined up the box so it was opposite the CT knob, and taped it to the hilt. I set it up in the drill press:


    And drilled three holes:


    I'll use the side scrolling bit on my rotary tool to turn the three holes into a slot for the switch to sit in.

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  7. #47

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    I finished cutting the slot yesterday afternoon:


    I had to work on the slot a bit more to get the switch box to line up properly, but it fits:



    Next, I taped the box to the hilt and drilled for the mounting screws for the box. I went all the wau through to the hilt, and through the hilt as well. I'll use two #8-32 flat heads to secure the box to the hilt:

    I used an 8-32 #29 bit to drill the holes first, and then I went back through the holes with my #10-32 drill bit, so the screws would not thread through the box, but only into the hilt. While I had it in the drill press, I also moved the hilt forward and drilled for the blade thumb screw:

    I had also previously drilled and tapped a hole for an 8-32 screw to hold the emitter shroud in place while I drilled for the thumbscrew.

    In order to get the switch box mounting screws heads' to be flush with the box, I used my 3/8 drill bit to create a counter bore and counter sink. I don't have the correct tool for that, so I improvised. The screws fit like so:


    I test assembled everything, and shot a few pics:



    Everything lines up fairly well, with only the blade thumbscrew being a little off the vertical axis from the switch box, but it's not that noticeable, really.

    The last piece to fabricate for this is the switch box circuit board:

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  8. #48
    Council Member Novastar's Avatar
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    SIIIICK, Jay... keep that up! Not sure what else to say but... brass looks nice. I can't wait to see the added detail/paint work for later!
    ~~ GREYTALE NOVASTAR (Writer, Director, Choreographer, Sound Designer, Actor, Saber Designer, Vocal Artist)
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP I: "Into The Lion's Den"
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP II: "Ashes of The Phoenix"
    ~~ The Crystal Focus Sound CD Compendiums... are HERE! ~~
    ~~ Nova & Caine's Staged Combat System... comin' SOON!
    ~~ Crystal Focus Wiring Guide

  9. #49

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    You can't beat the look of brass. It's slick and a real pleasure to work with. Good job there, jay. Looking forward to seeing how they turn out.

  10. #50
    Darth Anubis
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    Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet and Awesome and yeah its that great

    P.S.
    My older brother thinks that you should make a saber that looks like a trumpet

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