*insert nerdy squeel here*
I love the first one with the clamp! Get it done and post lit up pics!
*insert nerdy squeel here*
I love the first one with the clamp! Get it done and post lit up pics!
Proud owner of the last two style 6 MHS blade holders!
<('-'<)(>'-')><('-'<)<('-'<)(>'-')>(>'-')><('-'<)(>'-')>
Now I need to work on the switch placement on both sabers. The Parks clamp came with a green circuit board that slides into a slot in the clamp. The problem with it is that it's too shallow in the clamp....I'd prefer it to be closer to the top, so I can mount a switch underneath and cover the switch. Here's what I have for the box and clamp:
The two black cicuit boards are from some calculator bubbles that I got from a friend of mine. I used the bubbles on my custom saber, and held onto the boards for just such an occasion as this. I could mount one either way in the box:
The boards on the box will cover up the slide switch that will be mounted to the saber body, and covered by the switchbox. I'll have to drill a hole in the box and widen it to allow for the switch movement.
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Sence your gonna use it to cover the switch I would use the 2nd black card(bottem one) but if you were gonna mount a push button in it to where the top of the pluger woud sit slightly higher than the card I would use the middel(first black card).
Thats how I could do it.
Or maybe you could set it up to be like on some of the MR Sabers to where the card or whaterver slid with a sliding switch then I would somehow afix the first black card to the top of the sliding switch.
Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein
Reaganomics not Obamanomics
Oh, the black cards are actually the same card, just the top of the card in one pic, and the bottom of the card in the other pic. And I have considered drilling a hole just big enough for the "stick" on the switch to come through and use the card as part of the switch. I still am unsure of what to do with the switch for the clamp on BS#2....I do have some ideas, though.
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OH ok, I see. When I looked at the first pic I seen a green card and 2 black ones.
Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein
Reaganomics not Obamanomics
I did a bit more work on the switch box for BS#3...or is this BS#2? Oh well, it's the other brass saber I've got in the works too:
I drilled a hole in the center of the box then used my rotary tool to carve the hole into more of a slot shape to accomodate the switch post:
From the bottom:
I then drilled and tapped two holes for the #4-40 mounting screws and mounted the switch:
From the top, you can see the ends of the screws, but they are just about at the right height that they won't interfere with the cicuit board after I apply that:
The next step is to mark the location on the brass sleeve for mounting to the hilt, and also to make a slot for the switch bottom to clear the hilt, so I lined up the box so it was opposite the CT knob, and taped it to the hilt. I set it up in the drill press:
And drilled three holes:
I'll use the side scrolling bit on my rotary tool to turn the three holes into a slot for the switch to sit in.
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I finished cutting the slot yesterday afternoon:
I had to work on the slot a bit more to get the switch box to line up properly, but it fits:
Next, I taped the box to the hilt and drilled for the mounting screws for the box. I went all the wau through to the hilt, and through the hilt as well. I'll use two #8-32 flat heads to secure the box to the hilt:
I used an 8-32 #29 bit to drill the holes first, and then I went back through the holes with my #10-32 drill bit, so the screws would not thread through the box, but only into the hilt. While I had it in the drill press, I also moved the hilt forward and drilled for the blade thumb screw:
I had also previously drilled and tapped a hole for an 8-32 screw to hold the emitter shroud in place while I drilled for the thumbscrew.
In order to get the switch box mounting screws heads' to be flush with the box, I used my 3/8 drill bit to create a counter bore and counter sink. I don't have the correct tool for that, so I improvised. The screws fit like so:
I test assembled everything, and shot a few pics:
Everything lines up fairly well, with only the blade thumbscrew being a little off the vertical axis from the switch box, but it's not that noticeable, really.
The last piece to fabricate for this is the switch box circuit board:
Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.
SIIIICK, Jay... keep that up! Not sure what else to say but... brass looks nice. I can't wait to see the added detail/paint work for later!
~~ GREYTALE NOVASTAR (Writer, Director, Choreographer, Sound Designer, Actor, Saber Designer, Vocal Artist)
~~ Balance of Power, EP I: "Into The Lion's Den"
~~ Balance of Power, EP II: "Ashes of The Phoenix"
~~ The Crystal Focus Sound CD Compendiums... are HERE! ~~
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~~ Crystal Focus Wiring Guide
You can't beat the look of brass. It's slick and a real pleasure to work with. Good job there, jay. Looking forward to seeing how they turn out.
Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet and Awesome and yeah its that great
P.S.
My older brother thinks that you should make a saber that looks like a trumpet
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