New blade holder issue...

[strengthofrage]

I just got the MHS parts in the mail for my next saber, I liked the new angled blade holder and thought it would fit my new hilt idea. What I didn't think of is that since it has an angle to it that it will only thread on and line up one way... crooked. I took a picture but it didn't come out too well. The angle of the blade holder doesn't line up with the switch hole. I know, your first reaction is "cover the switch hole and relocate the switch". Thats fine but I dont want to be forced to increase the shroud size/length to cover a hole. I also don't want a random piece covering this thing either. I also don't want to use O-rings to limit how far you can tighten the blade holder on and therefore line up the slant because I wouldn't be able to have the shroud sit flush. I also want the longer side in line with the switch... The new blade holder is sweet but this is a bit of a problem. Any ideas?

[TimeRender]

I have thought for a while that Tim needs to stop making switch holes standard on the MHS parts. I think they should all be custom orders. That way you could be sure that the holes are always oriented exactly how you want them.

[ArkaiHalon]

not sure if it will mess up your plan or not but...

Just for giggles, flip the hilt around andput the switch on the pommel end.
It makes a difference in where things line up.

Might help, might not.

[eastern57]

doh... as you were... I'm stupid...

[TimeRender]

That's one of the things SoR specifically said he didn't want to resort to. I would send the bladeholder back and have Tim do a special work order for a custom 7 inch extension piece.

[acerocket]

I had a problem similar to this once on a custom saber. You could always sand the female threaded end of your choke point so that it causes the bladeholder to turn in more. You are essentially shortening the choke section (about .02" - .03" for your case). You will probably also need to sand the heatsink to a slightly thinner width because you are shortening the female thread length. It's really a trial and error process. Sand a little, test fit, repeat as necessary. I used some 220 grit sandpaper and it took me about 10 minutes of work to get almost 3/4 of a turn more on my saber. You need to make sure you keep the part you are sanding perpendicular to the sandpaper or you will get a crooked end and it will result in a gap between the two pieces. Just my 2 cents.

[vadeblade]

I had a problem similar to this once on a custom saber. You could always sand the female threaded end of your choke point so that it causes the bladeholder to turn in more. You are essentially shortening the choke section (about .02" - .03" for your case). You will probably also need to sand the heatsink to a slightly thinner width because you are shortening the female thread length. It's really a trial and error process. Sand a little, test fit, repeat as necessary. I used some 220 grit sandpaper and it took me about 10 minutes of work to get almost 3/4 of a turn more on my saber. You need to make sure you keep the part you are sanding perpendicular to the sandpaper or you will get a crooked end and it will result in a gap between the two pieces. Just my 2 cents.

that makes total sense Acerocket. to get perfectly perpendicular find a flat level surface(table or desk) and lay plate glass on top of it, then lay your sand paper on the plate glass. Work your saber part backwards and forwards on top of that. We should be lapping our heatsinks anyway.

Cheers,
V.

[strengthofrage]

Thanks for the ideas everyone

I tried what you suggested Arkai, it does line it up differently but then the angle is completely sideways on the saber. The sanding thing sounds like it would work but I think I may just wait until Tim gets home and order a new hilt piece without a pre-drilled switch hole like TimeRender suggested. That way I can line this puppy up any way I want. No need to send this hilt piece back though, always good to have spare parts

Hopefully anyone thinking of using this blade holder will read this and request that the switch hole is left off of their hilt. Thanks again for the input, thats why these forums are so helpful

[xl97]

thats ALWAYS a problem of getting some parts pre drilled and some not..

(happened to me once as well..)

also you can get several o-rings types.. the ones I used to change the screw/thread depths did NOT stick out beyond the diam. of the hilt..so there was no cover/sleeve that wouldnt sit flush as you mentioned..

maybe thinner, bigger ID ones may work for you?

[Ghostbat]

Here's my idea, and it may be entirely un-ideal but it's the only thing I can think of to get this kind of shape to line up every time.

Remove the thread (or file/dremel it down to the point where it no longer makes contact ) then position the emitter and tape it in place.

Now drill two to four holes through the emitter and hilt, thread them, and use hex screws to affix the emitter to the hilt.

Not ideal, but it should work yes?