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Thread: First Saber - Shoto Design

  1. #1
    Force Aware Mazaki's Avatar
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    Default First Saber, Need Some Assistance - Shoto Design

    So I'm ready to build my first saber after lurking around the forums a bit, and it's gonna be a shoto style hilt, with just simple switch/LED/resistor circuit until I learn more. I'd like for it to eventually have sound and motion/clash effects, and I plan on putting a momentary illuminated switch in the pommel.

    The question is; will I be able to cram all this in a 5" double female tube with pommel style 4 and BH style 13?

    Pic of how it would look (before being sleeved):

    Last edited by Mazaki; 08-04-2010 at 04:29 AM.

  2. #2

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    Well you've got over 4 inches of easy to use inner hilt space so depending on your batteries and board it looks like you can do it. I know I could. It might have some limitations and be a bit of a challenge to add a board on a first build though. Otherwise, a piece of cake.

    Mom switches are only usefull if you have certain boards otherwise you'd have to hold it in to keep the blade lit. You'll want a latching until you get a board.
    Last edited by Crystal Chambers; 08-04-2010 at 06:00 AM.

  3. #3

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    With just an LED and batteries, the hilt will probably work at the length you have specified.

    Trying to put audio into that hilt would require a LOT of pre-planning and Epic level cramfu. Speaker, batteries, sound card, switch and space for wires in 4 inches would be in the "custom made all-in-one internal chassis" realm.

    AK-47s and Lightsabers, both so fun to build

  4. #4

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    Actually yeah I think master replica boards are out of the picture. You need a board like the crystal focus or ultrasound that you can fit batteries underneath of. CFs are hard to get and not easy to wire and US are discontinued. There is hope that the TCSS board will be an option. It's hard to guess when it will be available.

    I don't know much about the other boards.

    Add another inch or two and you'll have a much easier time and more options.

  5. #5
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    Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie's Avatar
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    It can be done, but it requires some skill and some careful planning.

    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ad.php?t=10500

    I used a Yoda board for that, but any of the FX boards should fit on top of one AA sized Li-Ion battery in an MHS hilt. Just make sure to insulate the board from the inside of the hilt.

    Where do you plan on putting the switch? This will determine how much room you have to play with.


  6. #6
    Force Aware Mazaki's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie View Post
    It can be done, but it requires some skill and some careful planning.

    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ad.php?t=10500

    I used a Yoda board for that, but any of the FX boards should fit on top of one AA sized Li-Ion battery in an MHS hilt. Just make sure to insulate the board from the inside of the hilt.

    Where do you plan on putting the switch? This will determine how much room you have to play with.
    Wow, that is some serious cram-fu.

    Maybe I'll just try to get my hands on a Yoda board and work with that... Or sacrifice one of my Anakins for it.

    I plan on putting an illuminated switch in the pommel, gonna need to have a latching one, I guess. The MR boards use latching, correct?

  7. #7

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    Correct
    Every time Tim ships an order... an angel gets its wings



    "Just get one and go nuts, that's how this hobby works. Get stuff. Go nuts. Period." ~FenderBender~

  8. #8
    Force Aware Mazaki's Avatar
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    Updated the image:



    This is a side view, working on the top. The switch is still gonna go in the pommel.

  9. #9
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    Rhyen Skytracker's Avatar
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    Be careful if you put the switch in the pommel. If you have batteries that you have to change, then screwing and unscrewing the pommel can twist and break the wires. If you use an AV switch or any switch for that maatter, in the pommel I would recommend 4 AAA NiMH batteries in a 2 x 2 configuration, mount a Yoda board on top of those and add a recharge port somewhere. I have used this set up in some very tight hilts before and it worked great.

    Live long and...I mean May the force be with you. http://saberconcepts.50.forumer.com/index.php

  10. #10

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    Nice design! I suggest you use the MHS sleeve material or brass sinktube. The chrome doesn't look so hot with the brass edges.The only thing I don't like is the switch in the pommel for various reasons but that's just my opinion. For instance what about the speaker? Won't that switch hit it meaning that the speaker holder would have to be moved and need the lip removed that locks in between the pommel and body? If I were you I'd go for http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ni...itch-P471.aspx
    one of those. Or the gold one. You'd need something to convert the momentary signal to latching but IMO it would be worth it.

    Sorry my bad on the MR advice. I forgot that I left the quick connects on my board but if you remove them and solder to the board it is slimmer.
    Last edited by Crystal Chambers; 08-05-2010 at 06:40 AM.

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