Corbin Driver And A Lux V

[DarthFender]

I didn't see a noticeable difference. But then again you only get the full 1400 MA (resistired) from your battery pack for about 20 minutes anyway. I would go with the corbin, it's plenty bright and it lasts longer then a resistor.

[Dark Helmet]

on that note, it sound's like I'll be pretty happy with this driver, the overall design of it should clean up the birds nest of wiring in my hilt too...

[Novastar]

LEDs that "want" 1.5A (K2 green, Lux III red as examples) running on a Corbin's board isn't a bad idea at all.

Sure, they are a little under-driven, but... unless you're essentially a "lumen whore", then... it should be just fine.

Visually, it IS very hard to tell between something like 1A to 1.3A, etc.

Additionally, it's probably good to note that TECHNICALLY, Corbin's board *VACILLATES* between something akin to 700ma to 1200ma!! Yes, that's right, it pretty much plays a PWM game where it is turning the LED on and off rapidly, and the current is messed with. However, the "on/off/on/off" effect is WAAAAAAY too fast for your eyes to see. BUT... this results in your eyes only seeing the brighter light, although the thing is technically at a lower current for like... I don't know... 50% of the time.

The REASONS I did not mention all this before:

1. It's Corbin's board... ask him.
2. Kind of wordy explanation which still boils down to an average of 1A.

Luck be with you in your quest!