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Thread: BNC Blade

  1. #1

    Question BNC Blade

    I've read most of the threads here and just wondered if anyone has used a BNC connector type to make a quick release? This seemed good to me, but not sure if it would hold a blade good for dueling and such. Any feedback is welcome.

  2. #2

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    What Is A Bnc Connector?

  3. #3
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    BNC is like for coaxial cables... I don't get what you are thinking of using them for. OR you don't understand how an LED blade would work. I can see this for an EL blade but not LED...
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    Jedi Council Member Barmic Rin's Avatar
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    For the uninitiated....



    I'm wondering the same thing, XW... How would it work with LED? EL, yes. Though i'd prefer a jack/thumb screw set up as that's what 've used in the past..
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  5. #5

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    I was thinking more on the lines of the locking mechanism of BNC. Don't need the electronics to run through it. More of a custom made one.

  6. #6

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    I'd be worried about compromising the integrity of the blade, the only way's to do it would be to cut the groves out of the polycarb, or to put some kind of clamp on it and have the locking mechanism attached to that.

    each method is a problem, if you cut grooves in the blade it'll probably compromise it. If you make a lock that attaches to the blade it can't be as strong as simply using a thumbscrew, because you add extra weak points, making it less duelable.

    on top of making it weaker, adding a lock to the bottom will mean that the lock has to get through the emitter and blade holder so it can't be any wider than the blade itself, which is weaker than having the blade mounted in the lock.

    the only way I could see it is if the emitter itself was the removable lock, that might work, but it's going pretty far when the MHS system offers an easy and workable system already.

  7. #7

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    There is a very simple answer to this...

    A BNC connector exists because of a property of electricity at high frequencies. It's called the SKIN EFFECT. What the skin effect means is that as your signal that your sending over a cable gets faster and faster, the current stops flowing evenly down the wire and starts moving to the outside edge of the cable. Imagine if you painted a cable with thick paint... high frequency signals would be similar to that layer of paint on the outside. Not using the middle of the cable.

    The next reason for BNC (sometimes called co-axial or CO-AX) is the issue of Shielding/Cross talk. High frequency wires can interfere with other high frequency wires. THey can induce noise into each other when close to each other. Similarly, they lose more power when they radiate noise like that. The fix is to have your ground wire not only close to the + lead, but have it in the same center axis as the + lead. A co(shared) axis(axial).

    That's why your cable TV uses BNC or Co-Axial cables. It's a very high frequency signal. That's why high speed measuring equipment uses BNC connectors, because it's taking readings at high frequencies.

    Now... LED's use DC current... Even the one that flicker are so slow that you can SEE the flicker (like what 15 hertz, compared to 2400000 hertz of a high frequency signal?) There is no need for BNC in a saber period. Just use a simple DC connector anywhere in your saber and call it good.
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  8. #8
    Council Member Novastar's Avatar
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    I think he meant for the BLADE, Edwin.

    Although... dude... that is WAY cool to know about the Bayonet Nut Connector (BNC) thing. I always wondered why you were "supposed" to get a better signal on your monitor with those versus... well... a differing connector.

    Anyhow... the main reason why a BNC would suck donkey balls for a saber BLADE connection... is... well what's one of the most important things about the LIGHT that shines up into the blade?

    Well... being able to Fluckpin SEE it!
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  9. #9

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    I might be wrong, but I think he was ferering to a design LIKE the BNC, but that has not been invented yet. If I were to design a "Quick Release" saber blades, you can damn well believe I would get a pattent before I showed it off to any one. I can't think of a practical design. Anything strong enough will block the light, even if just a little bit. But... I think I see where he is going....
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  10. #10

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    Hmm... DevilGuy's interpretation, if the entire emmitter is attached to the hilt with a BNC style connection with power wired to the connection on the hilt side and to the LED on the emitter side so you could pop off the entire assembly and switch it out for a new one...

    Plus: VERY fast blade switching without undue wear on thread or wire connections. Kind of cool. Blade could be fixed quite firmly if you were to just switch to an empty emmitter for belt hanging.

    Minus: A weak point in the hilt when dueling? An expensive part to make when threaded sections can already be had cheaply.

    An interesting idea, could work, may or may not be worth the effort.

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