Nova, they won't be 900mA... it uses a a resistor to give around 350-500mA that the Prolight uses. It's not split either. It's one or the other until you do any mods. Actually grayven's mods have that 500A or less split!
I don't have any more to screw with, but a simple resistor swap may be fine. Or given how you like li-ion a single one there and remove the resistor. Lots of options...
RED LEADER Standing by!
Right, the idea is to get it to output 1A. True, some modifications will be needed...
For that, I was referring to what we're going to do with some 616 sabers that have not yet been touched--not so much what he already has.
~~ GREYTALE NOVASTAR (Writer, Director, Choreographer, Sound Designer, Actor, Saber Designer, Vocal Artist)
~~ Balance of Power, EP I: "Into The Lion's Den"
~~ Balance of Power, EP II: "Ashes of The Phoenix"
~~ The Crystal Focus Sound CD Compendiums... are HERE! ~~
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Hey there GForce, long time no hear...
Hello Novastar yep it has been a while but I am finally back again, I have to stop these outer rim excursions. It sounds like you are making progress on this build, I bought two of them and I am cutting up a 3' White Powder Coated Saftey Rail to build my Imperial Double Saber using the Vader Emitters and Probably the Vader Control Boxes.
And now a quick question for Master Grayven, I understand the basic wiring, I was originally planning on using a bunch of Corbin Style Micro Switches in the Control Box, but I really love the Rotary Setup, now I realize it replaces the Dip SW but do you still need the extra slider switch? If and when you have a chance could you post a basic wiring diagram for this setup? I really want the MultiColor Capability,what I would really like to do is upgrade the Led a RBG Rebel, but I suspect it would fry the Circut.
The Blade Problem, I have experimented with using my ThWalled GeluKahn Blade and it was a bit more even, I even tried installing a mirror in the stock Mr Blade, didn't help much so I tried a 5Degree Lens also not much improvement. I think the real problem is they are using a Single Element Led Lens on a Tri Lux Led and except for Corbins Custom made Tri-Lens I still don't know where to get one.
" I am a Jedi like my Father before Me"
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Hello Novastar yep it has been a while but I am finally back again, I have to stop these outer rim excursions. It sounds like you are making progress on this build, I bought two of them and I am cutting up a 3' White Powder Coated Saftey Rail to build my Imperial Double Saber using the Vader Emitters and Probably the Vader Control Boxes.Originally Posted by GFORCE13
And now a quick question for Master Grayven, I understand the basic wiring, I was originally planning on using a bunch of Corbin Style Micro Switches in the Control Box, but I really love the Rotary Setup, now I realize it replaces the Dip SW but do you still need the extra slider switch? If and when you have a chance could you post a basic wiring diagram for this setup? I really want the MultiColor Capability,what I would really like to do is upgrade the Led a RBG Rebel, but I suspect it would fry the Circut.
The Blade Problem, I have experimented with using my ThWalled GeluKahn Blade and it was a bit more even, I even tried installing a mirror in the stock Mr Blade, didn't help much so I tried a 5Degree Lens also not much improvement. I think the real problem is they are using a Single Element Led Lens on a Tri Lux Led and except for Corbins Custom made Tri-Lens I still don't know where to get one.
" I am a Jedi like my Father before Me"
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I an away on training the rest of this week, but when I get back I will do what I can depending on family matters. I'm sure they don't remember me by now.
Grayven
Has anyone figured out how to get this board to 900ma-1a yet? I want to run a single color led from it without a puck so I can get the extend/retract effect.
Nope haven't gotten any further on this either!!!
" I am a Jedi like my Father before Me"
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Ok I took one of my 616's apart today and was putting it on the meter. I got 500ma from the green, 400ma from the red and 320ma from the blue. If the total output of this board is 500ma and its split differently to each lead, what resistor would get put in to insure that the red and green (since they put out the most) would get at least 1a? When I looked up the resistor it was a 2.9ohm but dont have any idea on the wattage anyone? Either way, the resistor looks damn easy to change out, should I just put the same resistor that you get with the Lux III's in its place?
Edit: looks like theres 540ma coming off one side of the resistor and 460ma coming from the otherside. Am I not reading this right? Where would I put the probe to test current before it gets to the resistor?
Last edited by FenderBender; 09-23-2008 at 01:21 PM.
To test current your meter has to go between the junction and the resistor. That means unsoldering the resistor and using your meter between the feed and the resistor. Measuring across the resistor does not give you a accurate reading of the amperage.
You can however measure the voltage before and after the resistor and do a rough amperage calculation.
The formula is V = I R, where V is voltage, I is current, and R is resistance.
are those parts plastic?
--------------------------------------An You------------------------------------------
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