My new Custom saber...Fury

[Anavrin]

oh i get it wire the puck direct to the battery then the ctl and ref to the led wires so it goes off but the puck is still powered and use a kill switch to cut power altogether when not in use. right?

Or just remove the batteries entirely (My solution to the rare but painful problem of leaking cells). Otherwise, you're on target, now!

[pceptimus]

Or just remove the batteries entirely (My solution to the rare but painful problem of leaking cells). Otherwise, you're on target, now!

well thats probably what i will end up doing if i cant get the board to give out more than 500ma with my experiment. thanks for the help

[Arm on Fire]

Won't work that way. much of this has been tried already.

the cntl and ref wires on the puck are ment to be used with a pot. not to have voltage put into them, in fact i believe they have about 5v coming out, just no current

The only way it will work is to have the output from the 616 power a relay that acts as a switch for the puck, the trick is finding a relay that will fit in the hilt and has the right power requirements.

Ive done quite a few of these and the simplest and easiest way to use a 616 and a puck is to use a dpdt switch and put each circuit on its own pole. sure it sucks that you dont have a good selection of switches to use but thats the price you pay when trying to adapt a board to do something it was not designed to do.

to me its not worth possibly frying a perfectly good sound board over but if you want to poke around, go for it maybe you will figure it out. just my $.02

[pceptimus]

Won't work that way. much of this has been tried already.

the cntl and ref wires on the puck are ment to be used with a pot. not to have voltage put into them, in fact i believe they have about 5v coming out, just no current

The only way it will work is to have the output from the 616 power a relay that acts as a switch for the puck, the trick is finding a relay that will fit in the hilt and has the right power requirements.

Ive done quite a few of these and the simplest and easiest way to use a 616 and a puck is to use a dpdt switch and put each circuit on its own pole. sure it sucks that you dont have a good selection of switches to use but thats the price you pay when trying to adapt a board to do something it was not designed to do.

to me its not worth possibly frying a perfectly good sound board over but if you want to poke around, go for it maybe you will figure it out. just my $.02

Oh well the hope it to up the ma to the led while keeping the ramping effect the most some of us have got is 500ma while keeping the ramping effect. my p4 red is bright enough and im only putting 350ma into it at the moment.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

Won't work that way. much of this has been tried already.

the cntl and ref wires on the puck are ment to be used with a pot. not to have voltage put into them, in fact i believe they have about 5v coming out, just no current

The only way it will work is to have the output from the 616 power a relay that acts as a switch for the puck, the trick is finding a relay that will fit in the hilt and has the right power requirements.

Ive done quite a few of these and the simplest and easiest way to use a 616 and a puck is to use a dpdt switch and put each circuit on its own pole. sure it sucks that you dont have a good selection of switches to use but thats the price you pay when trying to adapt a board to do something it was not designed to do.

to me its not worth possibly frying a perfectly good sound board over but if you want to poke around, go for it maybe you will figure it out. just my $.02

This is wadeh13, I have changed my name.
I have found DPDT relays with a 5V coil at radio shack. They are small enough to fit inside a saber hilt. I had to use one using a guarded switch with a 4 wire switch MR board. Very nice saber.

[Arm on Fire]

The major drawback to using a relay however is that once the battery's where down to the point voltage drops below 5v the relay may not function and shut off the led even though the batterys stilll have enough juice to run the LED.

[gundamaniac]

Ugh. Is there any way to do this without a DPDT switch? I'm trying to use the 616 in my friend's christmas saber...and it's using the pushbutton latching switch that Tim sells.

And does anyone have a rough LED runtime with the relay?

[Anavrin]

See? I should have listened to Arm On Fire. So now I'll ask him, since he seems to know more than those who DARE disagree with him

If I wired the Puck's VIN- in series with the switch, ah heck, Arm On Fire (Or anyone), would /this/ work? I'm not expecting ramping, I just want to know if I'm getting the basics of wiring down, or if I'm off my rocker again.

[Arm on Fire]

No, think of it this way, the board has voltage going threw it at all times as long as there are battery's installed. the built in switch on the board is only switching the positive (or negative I'm not sure which) flow to the components on the board. trying to hook in a puck into this switch is introducing another voltage /amperage source to the board which it will not like, and therefore will not work.

You cannot use the ctrl/ref wires with the onboard switch either because the puck works the opposite way, if the circuit is closed the puck is off.

I seem to keep saying this.....

The only way to make this work is with a DPDT Switch or with a relay.

BOTH CIRCUITS HAVE TO BE KEPT SEPARATE, THEY DO NOT PLAY NICELY TOGETHER.

Please, if someone can prove me wrong I will welcome you with open arms. (although one or them will be on fire )

[Darth_DevilGuy]

yeah, we just need to find a decent standard relay...