(2) 700mA Buckpucks = 1400 mA

**Arm on Fire** · 03-13-2008, 06:19 AM

This is my wiring of (2) 700 mA Buckpucks (taped together) wired in parallel with DPDT slider, and Quick connect for LED, 4 AAA battery pack , to get 1400 mA output to LED. all parts purchesed in TCSS store.

**Novastar** · 03-13-2008, 09:08 AM

Awwww yeah baby.

That's a nice compact and effective/efficient setup for a K2 or even a Lux III Red-O... or EVEN overdriving a Lux III Green/Blue,etc.

Nice! Don't forget to post photos once you juice up the LED with the current...

**Arm on Fire** · 03-13-2008, 09:25 AM

Thanks Nova, it is for a red-o lux III , its going in this saber...

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ead.php?t=4252

i think i could have made the leads on the quick connect shorter though

**Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie** · 03-15-2008, 11:38 PM

Originally Posted by Novastar

That's a nice compact and effective/efficient setup for a K2 or even a Lux III Red-O... or EVEN overdriving a Lux III Green/Blue,etc.

Hmmm... I seem to have misunderstood something. Help me out here.

If I wire two pucks the same way shown here, it's just shy of what my green K2 wants, and that's OK. Got it.

If I put my Lux III in instead, would it only draw the 1A it "wants", or would the pucks "push" 1400 mA into it and over drive it? I thought that the former was the case, and not the latter. What happens here?

I ask because I just ordered two 700 mA pucks today, to put in my brass saber. I plan to run the K2, but I also ordered a white Seoul, and thought I might like to swap now and then.

**strengthofrage** · 03-16-2008, 04:20 AM

I also just wired this same set up with a disconnect. The LuxIII would be a bit overdriven but my LuxIII Royal blue looks great set up like this. The Seoul P4 I tried was bright without filters but with filters (purple) it wasnt so good. The LuxIII red orange wants 1400 so it is perfect this way and looks great. I am planning on sticking with the royal blue, like Nova always says, 'overdriving within reason may shorten the life of your LED... but are we really going to notice?'

**Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie** · 03-16-2008, 12:19 PM

Originally Posted by strengthofrage

The Seoul P4 I tried was bright without filters but with filters (purple) it wasnt so good.

I plan on using this 2 puck setup with a K2 in the saber I'm finishing right now.

The Seoul is for the saber that I have on the drawing board. I'm going totally steampunk, with a piece of lit up quartz crystal in a totally open chamber. The vision in my head is to light up the quartz with a yellow LED, and have a pale yellow blade to sort of match the brass.

I figure that if I can set my current saber up for the K2, I can plug the Seoul in and see how it looks. It will take some experimenting to find the right filter material. Of course, this new saber will have to have a CF with ancient saber font. That would be too cool!

**strengthofrage** · 03-16-2008, 05:03 PM

That sounds really cool Obi-Dar, ancient saber font with the blade you described on a steampunk saber... nice

**Strydur** · 03-16-2008, 11:18 PM

Has anyone actually tested the output wiring these up like this? I was talking to the manufacturer the other day and mentioned some people are trying to get 1400 this way and they told me you would likely only get around 1050 or so. Just wondering if anyone has actually measured the current.

**xwingband** · 03-17-2008, 11:36 AM

That's disappointing... I have an idea but I don't want to post it as I don't want to have more "bark up the wrong tree". When I get some more pucks I'll try it. I think the load has to float to get the 1400mA. Heck making a whole new cheaper driver might be better at this point.