I've been unlucky ennough to never be able to get my hand on crystal focus, so my current main saber passed from a led-only to a hasbro to a MR sound board, waiting to get its full-fledge sound board installed...
Since it still haven't hapenned, I started to believe there's one grade missing in saberbuilding.
We have the pure basic (resistor) and some early control (direct connect on hasbro or MR sound board)
We also have led-only driver (corbin's) but its not the best integration with sound (at least in my experience)
Then we have the full-fledge drivers (ultra, plecter)
We can also pass to other blade type: hyperblade, EL blades, plasma blades...
but the fact remain, there's no mid-grade luxeon controller with sound.
So I decided that what was best in the "middle" was the possibility to upgrade from MR-direct connect to something bigger without being the full fledge luxeon+sound driver.
And I made this "daughter board" prototype that is intended to run piggy-back on a master replicas soundboard, help with the control, and drive luxeons. (see video links below)
The current post is to demonstrate this prototype.
Hear me, its not a full fledge luxeon driver - its a led controller intended to be more then the simple resistor you put on your master replicas. It controls the brightness of the LUX by pulsating it (PWM) like other drivers do, but doesn't feed a specific current. It could be a future addition, but I don't think its required for a mid-grade solution.
As it is right now, you would still need the resistor (or other current controller) to ensure the LED isn't blown.
What it does?
it controls the brightness of the Luxeon, being synced with the MR board. Taking the "led segment output" from the MR's blade, making 6 step ramping extension/retraction, in real-time sync with the MR sound. Then, it shimmers similarly to high-grade drivers.
The clash sensor connects to the daughterboard, that flashes on impact and sends the signal to the MR for us to hear the sound. If you replace the clash sensor by a switch (or put both in parallel) then you have the option to keep clash on, making some low-grade lock simulation (the MR won't play a lock sound, but will repeat the clash ones.)
in addition to all that, there's accent leds in-sync with the whole set.
want to see that in action? I have 2 videos to show you
1st: Explanation video. At that point its still on the workbench to demonstrate how it works.
http://s146.photobucket.com/albums/r...t=100_2919.flv
2nd: demonstration video without accent leds. (well, I haven't place for accent leds on my current saber... I need a clamp to add those, I guess I'll get one from ebay some day)
http://s146.photobucket.com/albums/r...t=100_2921.flv
So... I'm all ears. is it a good idea?
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