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Thread: Corbin Wiring Diagrams

  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by eastern57 View Post
    Yes, that's correct. In order to use both, you'll need a DPDT.

    Look at this diagram/table - this would actually fall under either a DPDT OR DPST, but DPDTs are just more common.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switch
    Thanks! I actually understand that! I feel like I did when I figured out how to win at tic-tac-toe! And that was just last year!

  2. #22

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    This is what I have now:

    So what I basically need to do is to replace the 4aaa pack with a 4aa pack, replace the current switch with a DPDT switch, and wire it according to the first diagram Hasid provided (below)? But with my 2005 Mace board, I can use the one clash sensor for both the MR board and the Corbin board, right? I have a four-wire sliding switch from a dead 2003 Vader board. Could I use that?

  3. #23

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    The diagram shows two clash sensors for a reason....the MR board has current that runs through the sensor that the Corbin doesn't like. It will require two clash sensors. If you happen to have an old hasbro board that you may have fried, you can use the clash from that on the Corbin

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  4. #24

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    Thanks, Jay-gon Jinn. I was under the impression that some of the MR boards could handle having their clash sensor wired to the Corbin, and that this was one of them. I have a few clash sensors laying around that I can use.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by eastern57 View Post
    *Starts to say something.... humbly realizes he's made a mistake and bows most graciously to LDM*

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  6. #26

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    I've located a couple of push-button, momentary DPDT switches and am thinking of trying one, but I have a really dumb question. I have a couple of tactile switches on hand. Tactile switches have four posts. I assume that's for a reason. Now, from what I gather, DPDT switches have six posts. My dumb question is, can a tactile switch be used in essentially the same way as a DPDT switch; that is, can it be used to flip two separate circuits? In the long run, I ask because I'd like to hook up a Corbin board with either an MR board or a Hasbro board, but for the moment, I would just really like to eliminate the damned blinking caused by the Hasbro boards by running the LED directly from the 4aaa battery pack, and using the Hasbro board just for sound.

  7. #27
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    No... they're fundamentally different. Tactiles are momentary. A latching pushbutton is a a different action.

    Also four posts is DPST. SPDT is three, etc...
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  8. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by xwingband View Post
    No... they're fundamentally different. Tactiles are momentary. A latching pushbutton is a a different action.

    Also four posts is DPST. SPDT is three, etc...
    Sorry, I wasn't clear enough. I would need a latching switch for the MR board, but for now I'm looking for a solution to the cursed Hasbro blinking, and the Hasbros (at least the versions I have) require momentary switches. The pushbutton DPDT switch I said I located is a momentary switch. Either way, I suspected the tactile switch couldn't be used for two circuits, but I thought it wouldn't hurt to ask.

    Sorry to derail the topic.

  9. #29

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    Back to the 2002 AOTC Anakin EL to Luxeon III conversion with the Corbin, does this look right?

    For a more detailed look at the AOTC Anakin board, see this thread.

  10. #30

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    From this thread:

    Quote Originally Posted by Lord Dottore Matto View Post
    you have 2 options, 5 or 6V voltage regulator with the current board, or simply replacing that EL/crap board. A 616 board is actually a good idea, especially with your corbin v2.
    Thanks, LDM. I just tried the wiring I posted above, and it seems to work perfectly without a voltage regulator. Nothing seemed to be getting hot, the Lux looks good, the Corbin V2 is working fine... Am I looking at trouble down the road if I don't use a voltage regulator?

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