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Thread: Corbin Wiring Diagrams

  1. #11

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    I was lucky enough to get hold of a broken 2005 Mace Windu that turned out to have a perfectly functioning board. I would like to hook it up with a Corbin in order to get flicker and clash effects, but have a couple of concerns. So far in all my builds (just three), I have used a 4aaa pack of rechargeable 1000mA Ni-MHs, a Luxeon III, and a recharge port with a kill switch. Am I right in thinking that I will not get the flicker effect with the 4.8 volts this setup generates? And am I also correct in thinking that my MR board (see the photos below) would be fried (sooner or later) by a 6v charge? I'm frankly puzzled why Corbin would make an LED driver that requires 6v for full effect, knowing that one of the most common uses for it would be running it with an MR board.

    I would like to have a one-switch setup, and don't require a lock-up effect. And if I'm not mistaken, with the board I have, I don't need to have separate sensors for the MR board and the Corbin board.

    Sorry for asking questions that are probably implicitly answered elsewhere, but once talk turns to voltage regulators and Buckpucks and DPTP switches, the fuse in my little brain blows and I have to go watch the Teletubbies and eat dry Cheerios until it resets itself.



  2. #12
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    6V will work perfectly for what you want to do. You need a DPDT switch, your corbin driver and you are set. Just don't use more than 6V!
    Last edited by Lord Dottore Matto; 12-20-2008 at 03:33 PM.
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lord Dottore Matto View Post
    6V will work perfectly for what you want to do. You need a DPDT switch and you are set. Just don't use more than 6V!
    Actually, the versions with only two leads (two purple switch wires) you can use a regular SPST latching. They have same firmware as the better anakin, ob1, etc..

  4. #14
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    I've got the Mace board with the 4 wires coming from the switch.
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    Quote Originally Posted by eastern57 View Post
    Actually, the versions with only two leads (two purple switch wires) you can use a regular SPST latching. They have same firmware as the better anakin, ob1, etc..
    Ahem, I was talking about if he were to use a corbin v2 with it...

    I have edited my original advice for clarity's sake
    Last edited by Lord Dottore Matto; 12-20-2008 at 03:34 PM.
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  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jedi-Loreen View Post
    I've got the Mace board with the 4 wires coming from the switch.
    For that one, as eastern57 taught me, you must use a dpdt switch just for the board itself!
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:1. LDM's Basic Saber-build Step-by-Step Tutorial 1A. Maul's Saber Dictionary 1B. THREAD INDEX 1C. Econo Sound Diagrams
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  7. #17
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    Yeah, so I'm not gonna try it with my Corbin board, I'll just use it by itself.
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  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lord Dottore Matto View Post
    Ahem, I was talking about if he were to use a corbin v2 with it...

    I have edited my original advice for clarity's sake
    *Starts to say something.... humbly realizes he's made a mistake and bows most graciously to LDM*

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  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lord Dottore Matto View Post
    Ahem, I was talking about if he were to use a corbin v2 with it...

    I have edited my original advice for clarity's sake
    Wait, so if I want to hook this board up to the Luxeon 3w driver V2 currently sold at TCSS, I will need a DPDT switch?
    I'm happy to get such prompt responses, but I'm afraid I'm more confused now. Fuse is...
    Must...watch...Teletubbies...Cheerios...

  10. #20
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    Yes, that's correct. In order to use both, you'll need a DPDT.

    Look at this diagram/table - this would actually fall under either a DPDT OR DPST, but DPDTs are just more common.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switch

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