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Thread: Corbin Wiring Diagrams

  1. #41


    First, allow me to apologize for cross-posting this to three threads, but I think it's pertinent to all three.

    I just got my LedEngin RGGB and RGBA LEDs today packed liked precious jewelry. And I finally hit on what I think should be a good working solution for the elusive Clone Wars Ultimate Lightsaber conversion that preserves both the sound and light functions of the original. I'm posting my tentative wiring diagram here in the hope that more experienced sabersmiths can check it for flaws. Since the LedEngin LEDs are not particularly cheap, I don't want to experiment with them till I'm 99.99% sure that I at least won't fry them.

    This uses the CWUL board, a LedEngin RGGB (LZ4-20MC10), a Corbin driver, three latching DPDT switches (one for each color, replacing the three push-to-make switches held down by the crystals), and one momentary DPDT switch (for turning the saber on and off). It seems to me that if the wiring diagram Eastern posted works, this one should work, too.

    EDIT: The wiring for the green LEDs was wrong in the diagram. This is a corrected diagram.

    BTW, the latching switches for the colors that I'm thinking of using light up in their respective colors when activated, and have a diameter of 7.4mm (0.29").

    NOTE: Like all the Hasbro "toy" sabers (and even the earliest FX sabers), the Clone Wars Ultimate Lightsaber has a time-out function that kicks in if the clash sensor has not been activated for about a minute. Obviously, the Corbin driver has no such function. So if the sound side times out, the LED will remain on, and next time you push the momentary switch (I'm assuming--I haven't actually tested it), the LED will turn off, and the sound will turn on! If that happens, you could just let it time-out again, and then the Hasbro board and Corbin board will be back in sink, but if you don't want to do that, the only solution I can think of is a kill switch, either in a recharge port or as a separate "push-to-break" reset button. (As if this thing won't have enough switches--four at last count--as is.)
    Last edited by Matt Thorn; 01-27-2009 at 11:52 PM.
    There's always a bigger fish.


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