driving your LED(No resistors allowed)? Read this

[xwingband]

I've seen so many questions on drivers and can they run this... what setting can they use...

Here's the skinny: The drivers we use are constant current, meaning the voltage changing (batteries draining) doesn't matter all that much.

A consequence of this is you are free to use whatever batteries you want within reason.

Now the meat of why I wanted to post this... settings. The CF and Ultraboard allow you to change the current to the LED! So when you look at the LED forget the voltage!

"Can I run _______?" Is irrelevant! If it's an LED and you match the current volts don't matter.

Example: Ultraboard has four settings: V , III Blue/White/Green , K2 , III Red and Amber

THIS REALLY MEANS: 700mA, 1000mA, 1500mA, 1540mA

So if your LED wants 1000mA you can select the III Blue/White/Green setting. Even if it needs 7V it'll drive it. If your LED has a target of 700mA you can overdrive it at 1000mAh. So a V would be overdriven on the III Blue/White/Green setting.

[LAN-ED-TUL]

so a V would be overdriven on a US board by 300 mA then, right X? is that not enough to worry bout damage to the LV led? just wondered.

[Do-Clo]

so a V would be overdriven on a US board by 300 mA then, right X? is that not enough to worry bout damage to the LV led? just wondered.

The ultra sound board has a setting for the Lux V which drives it at 700ma

[acerocket]

Ask Corbin. The Killer Penny is running a Lux V from one of his driver boards at 1000 mA. As far as I know, it's still going.

[Luar Selbor]

So if i put 8 aaa in a saber and put a Lux III. The Lux III will not fry. Because i would like to use both III and V on a CF.

[xwingband]

Overdriving is okay... within reason. Take a White III to 2 amps it will do funny things to the tint! If your LED and heatsink can handle it then you'll only loss life on the LED (a few thousand off a already 70,000 hour typical life).

Luar, 8AAA of rechargeables is 9.6V... that'd be cool for CF. It'll work for both LED's. Just remember that you shouldn't "hot swap" them. Erv's board gets the voltage at boot and going from a V to a III will fry it. Reboot after switching then it's good to go.

Now if you meant 8AAA of non-rechargeable... don't do it! The CF limit is 11V. Frying a CF would be sad.

[LAN-ED-TUL]

The ultra sound board has a setting for the Lux V which drives it at 700ma

for now its in the vader saber, and running the red/orange L3. i remember the other led settings in the audio menu. i was just curious bout what X was sayin bout the overdriving them.

soon as X gets back to me with the details, im gonna go in with him to get a seoul green led, and get a heatsink plate from Tim and a quick connect, cuz my MHS hilt i setup with a quick connect to do swapping leds if i wanted to. its got that puck for the LV led inside it driving it now, and X stated i can directly swap it out with the seoul green, and prolly get a lil more, brighter that way, and if not much brighter, at least the runtime on the batts will be greater than it is now.

[Do-Clo]

I overdrive my leds sligthly and I don't have any problems with failure. The big problem with the Lux v is the amount of heat the darn things generate, so I normally don't use then. I stick with the K2 or the Lux III. The last K2 leds I got I had some problems with the led domes falling off and I had to epoxy the darn things back on.

[LAN-ED-TUL]

really, i knew of the big thing they were sayin bout a recall, or something, on a batch, cuz of similar incident happening. maybe you got some of those bad leds then bro.

[Count Malik]

I'm thinking of going to a lux. V for my next saber. As for K2s I had a hard time soldering them. Plus there not much brighter than a lux. III to me.