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Thread: How strong is PC tubing

  1. #61

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    I've busted a few 1/16" walled el blades from using pointed set screws that were put in too tightly so those of you that are doing this make sure you're not "boaring" into the blade you only want it to go in enough to "bite" so the blade doesn't come flying out.




  2. #62

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    I have a cutting tool from my old 60's dremel that is basically a round metal ball with cutting edges. This allows you to bore a slight dished hole in your blade without weakening it. I don't use the 1/16 walled blades anymore except with a wooden dowel rod inside covered with reflective paper for daytime practice. The only blade I ever broke was one from Parksabers. The wire attached to the EL paper twists until it forms a very tight knot which caused the blade to fracture at that point. On good hit with a J-Lo blade and crack...there it went. Clean break about an inch above the plug connector. I decided to keep it to show others why Lori's blades are better. Tim makes his the same way, so since Lori has retired from blade making, we can still get the same quality.

    Zhi-don Aquintas
    XO RL Sunrider Base
    Treasurer/Head Instructor
    Lightsaber training OCSWS

  3. #63

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    *nods* well you could just remake that blade like I did mine that broke, that being that you recut the remaining polycarbonate and "salvage" a shorter blade from the process. Just a thought, because anyone that isn't daft would know that Lori's (now refined with the 1/8" thick tubes) blade methode is the best... But at the same time I guess that means quite a few people are daft huh?[]lol




  4. #64

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    Aye laddie, that they are. Given that I mostly use my sabers for dueling, a short blade is not an option. I like a 40 inch blade for that, given that I don't have a long arm reach and some of my students do.....[]

    Zhi-don Aquintas
    XO RL Sunrider Base
    Treasurer/Head Instructor
    Lightsaber training OCSWS

  5. #65

    Default

    Ah, well I'm 6'4" so that's never been an issue with me.




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