Need help with parts

[Darth_DevilGuy]

OK so it's time to order some parts from Tim and get started building my first saber. So I'd really appreciate it if the more experienced sabersmiths here would look over the list of parts I plan on using and point out things I might have missed or don't need.

Parts List:
-Electronics
Red Lux III LED
Hasbro soundboard (have this from a Vader FX)
Corbin's 3w momentary Driver
SPST Momentary switch black button
Premium Speaker
Luxeon Collimator Lens 5°
Edit: add lens holder
Edit: 4AA battery holder

-Hilt
MHS 2in female double threaded connector
MHS Hilt style 2
MPS Pommel Style 4
MPS Insert Style 4 (with machined speakerholes if possible)
MHS Speaker Mount (planning a resonance chamber, don't know If I need this)
Screw on LED blade emitter Style 1
8 black O-rings
LED "Corbin style" Battle blade 1" OD
Edit: Double ended male threaded connector

-Tools
6/32 tap and drill set.
Tap handle

[Stinky Bantha]

Only thing it looks like you're missing is a battery holder/ rechargeable pack and a double male connector or gender changer if you're planning on using both the 2in female and the hilt style 2.

As for the resonance chamber comment, the pommel itself should provide enough of a chamber. I've used it before, and it sounds great. The speaker mount fits in the threaded area like the heatsink for the led, so it's not going to be at the very end of the pommel.

[Lord Maul]

You also need a blade retention screw. That would be threaded either 8-32 or 10-32. I have no idea why you'd need a 6-32 tap.

[Darth_DevilGuy]

I have a set of style one claws I bought from someone else here, that has a 6/32 hole, so I was planing on drilling strait down on the blade holder and using that to hold both the blade and the claw mount.

I'll add the battery pack and the double male connector which I had planned but forgot to include.

[Lord Maul]

The mounting hole for the claw mount is unthreaded. You can put any size screw into the mounting hole

[Darth_DevilGuy]

ah that's good to know, I'll figure out what thumbscrew to use then.

Edit: anyone know how long the screw will need to be, I'm assuming the standard ones will be too short and the half incher will be too long

[vortextwist]

are you putting the 2 inch section at the bottom? The Male/male connector has a smaller ID then the ribbed sections so I would make sure you batt pack fits through it, unless your using the whole 2 inch piece as a speaker resonance chamber, then your batt/board must all fit in the shilt style 2.

[BhujangiJedi]

A few things I wish I had included in my order:

• heat shrink tubing
• some extra wire
• blade screws - a 10-32 1/8" set screw would disappear nicely into the hilt. The best I could find at Home Depot is 3/8", which sticks out a bit, but I managed to get 1/4" screws at Ace that sit flush with the outside of the blade holder (style 3). Tim's thumb screws are pretty nice looking as well.

Also, if you might be swapping out LEDs, you'll probably want a quick connect.

[Hasid Lafre]

Yeah your gonna have a space issue. Everything is gonna be crammed in the 7" hilt section.

I would have tim make a style hilt without the switch holes, Then have tim make a 2" with the switch holes, Then put the 2" section up top and flip the style hilt around.

Same look just some more room up top for switches and wiring and the heatsink to sit right. your not gonna have much room for a resinance chamber this way thou.

Trust me situatin everything to sit inside a 7" sectin is a pain in the ***. (See tim we need regular 10" style hilt sections then we wont have this problem:P).

[Darth_DevilGuy]

the way I have it planned is for the switch to be toward the emitter, never having seen the parts is driving me nuts because I can't know exactly how big everything is. I had planned to put switch driver batterys in the 7in hilt, and soundboard speaker and resonance chamber in the 2 inch extender.