Hasbro Force action/Corbin's Board

[Lord Maul]

3 batteries will work. 2 batteries would be easier to do, but you'll have a shorter run time. 4 batteries (wired in series for 6V) will fry a Hasbro board.

[Dark Navel]

OK so>>>

If using corbins board will get the shimmering effect but the sound effect is cheesy (it wont cycle quickly enough in order to get a decent blade lock-up sound effect)...I will also use 4 batteries or 3 but with 3 the runtime will diminish.

If I don't use Corbins board limit it to 3 batteries because 4 will fry the hasbro soundboard. @ will work as well but again the runtime will be diminished.

I think I got it.

[DarthFender]

DF,

Other than the obvious of getting the blade extend/retract from corbins board what will you achieve? When you hooked up the clash sensor to corbins board what was the end result other that getting rid of the annoying flashing that comes with the Hasbro board?

Sorry to take so long for this response. When I hooked up the clash sensor to the Corbin board's CL Port, I got the shimmer on clash that you would get when pressing the button. It does not change how the hasbro board plays the clash sound. The only issue I have with this setup id that the blade does not shimmer on every blade impact that make the sound. But, the beauty of it is you can still hook up a separate momentary button and get the same effect. I just wanted it to work automatically. (It does but only about 25% of the time.) You will still have to wire the button to get the lockup effect and the Hasbro board will not make a lockup sound It will make a "clash.......clash.......clash......clash" But in all its still a drastic improvement over the default hasbro lighting effects.

Maul, I hate to contradict you, but I have been running a hasbro w/o a corbin board for several months on a 4 AA battery pack and it has (As of yet) not released the Magic Smoke. I also have one running with the corbin board and hasbro with the 4 AA battery pack, no problems. Both of these packs are set up for 6v.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

The only Hasbro boards you can't run on 6 volts were the older, light-bulb based sabers that used two C batteries.. If you have a Hasbro board from a newer saber with the led ring for lighting, that used three AA batteries, you can go up to 6 volts.

[strengthofrage]

Yep, Jay-Gon is right. The LED ring Hasbros like the ones mentioned in this thread run fine with a 6v pack. I have no experience with the older ones without the LED ring.

[Dark Navel]

Thanks for getting back to me Fender..I appreciate it because it now gives me a better direction to go in.

Also, thanks to Darth Fender and Jay-gon for shedding more light on the battery issue with the newer Hasbro boards that use LED technology.

So just to triple make sure:

I can hook up Corbin's board the the Hasbro LED Vader board with a 3W red LED, run two switches (one for power and the other for the flash on clash effect) on a 4 volt battery pack. I want to run two switches so I can control the FOC feature at will.

Even if I don't use Corbin's board I can still power the saber with 4 volts without frying it. This is great news because 2 AA batteries side by side just fit into a 1.25" sink tube. All I have to do now is make a 4v rechargable battery pack and make sure I don't stack the batteries.

I will try and get a couple of diagrams together to others out.
This is very helpful and I again appreciate it!

[Lord Maul]

The only Hasbro boards you can't run on 6 volts were the older, light-bulb based sabers that used two C batteries.. If you have a Hasbro board from a newer saber with the led ring for lighting, that used three AA batteries, you can go up to 6 volts.

I didn't know that. Thanks for the info Jay

That sounds good to me DN

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Oh, no problem, Maul, but don't thank me really, I remember reading that in one of X-wing's posts from a while back.

[Dark Navel]

Ok it's late and I'm felling dumb here, but is there a diagram showing where to hook up the 2nd switch (the FOC switch)..

I guess it usually hooks up on Corbins board near the top but this is where I have to attach the clash sensor per Fender

I was going to work on a diagram but I guess I better go to bed..:am

uggghhh

[Dark Navel]

that's 2:47am..Geez I guess I am tired