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Thread: Hasbro Force action/Corbin's Board

  1. #41

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    "All your gonna get with a C&L button on the corbin board is the lock up effect, your not gonna get a clash sound when pressing the button.

    With the diagram thats up there you will get a clash sound and a flash when the blade hits something but if you hold the lockup button all its gonna do is flash the blade." -originally from Hasid

    Hasid,
    The flash that I do get will not be a blinking flash, the one that everyone hates: the Hasbro blinking flash, correct? (Shouldn't it be more of a shimmering)

    I also undersatnd that I am relying on a cheap $20.00 board and it doesn't compare to an MR, Ultra or Erv's CF board and I can live with that.

    (Can't find an MR board, the Ultra's (yeah right) and Erv is now working on his new CF board not to mention I can't afford it right now. With the amount of $$ that i have already put into this project my wife is ready to force choke me + I'm out of work due to an injury that someone else caused...I can't get mad at myself for this one and Wormen's Comp in MA pays squat, not to mention it's been 3 weeks and I still haven't received a check)

    The reason why I want to use Corbin's board is to not only get rid of hasbro's gofoy blinking lights upon contact with soemthing but I also want the saber blade to power up and power down in synch with the somewhat sound effect on the Hasbrp board for the power up/power down.

  2. #42

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    I said thers a way to make it a latching board so it whould make the hasbro latch also But sence I cant rember how to do it just disregard that part.

    I have a corbin board with an mr vader card, I have asked corbin alot of question about what I can and can not do with the board and a sound card.

    Your diagram will work fine just forget about the second button. all it will do is cause a voltage signal to interupt with the sound board, Sound boards dont like mixed voltage signals.

    You need a clash sensor for corbins board, Using one sensor for 2 boards will cause mixed voltage signals to the sound board.

    Your gonna get a flash on clash no matter what you do. The corbin board will give a flash on clash the hasbro board gives a flash on clash. Shimmer or flash its the same thing.

    The only way to not get a flash on clash with a hasbro board is if the led is driven by something like a resistor or a puck and the sound board is on a different circut. Weather you wire the led to the driver or the hasbro card its gonna flash on clash.
    Last edited by Hasid Lafre; 01-25-2008 at 12:26 AM.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

    Reaganomics not Obamanomics


  3. #43

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    Well, after getting input for all of you I have also been speaking with the man himself, Corbin Das.

    We have come up with a final drawing and I have already modified it to what he has been stating in our communications. I kept the clash sensor on the board and will wire the 2nd switch (momentary push type) to the wires running from the clash sensor on the hasbro baord to the connection points on his board.

    Corbins board will be a momentary board. I have a DPDT momentary switch that has 6 connections for power on'off and and then the SPST momentary switch for the FOC/shimmer switch.

    Nothing has been said about mixed voltages with the setup that I have here. (I think that may have played a part when using an MR board).

    I hope some will find this usefull.

    DN
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #44

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    Well sir I admit I may be wrong when it comes to the hasbro board but just watch out if you smell something thats like a burnt clutch in a car dont turn it on.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

    Reaganomics not Obamanomics


  5. #45

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    OK Hasid...I'll make sure I do that then and I'll make sure "I look busy".

    I was trying to get input from all people and you are so adiment that I am going to fry my board, if I do that then oh well...

    You seem as though your a bit high up on your horse...chilllax. If I fry the board them I'm out the money. I appreciate your input and you may indeed be right and if you are then it will be my fault. Since Corbin has approved it then I am going with what he has to say. I am in no way saying that you are wrong and don't know because you do have a grasp on what I am trying to do.

    In this case I have to go with Corbin since he's the one who desigend the board that I am attaching the Hasbro board to.

    By the way,

    You may find your picture attched to your name funny or amusing but I think it's a shame you have to stoop to that level. I am not a bible toting, preachaholic but come on...I'm sure you can find something a bit better, classier, funnier.

    Thank you for your replies to my questions but the other comments aren't needed.

  6. #46

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dark Navel View Post
    I don't mean to sound like I jerk here but I feel like I keep getting conflicting answers.
    DN,

    I dont think the answers you are getting are "conflicting", they are merely different ways so accomplish the same thing.

    I was trying to explain the route I used that minimized my spending for parts. I will admin that my flash on clash solution is less than satisfactory, but I think it's better than hasbro's.
    Darth Fender
    Sith Lord

    You over estimate my FLOWERS!

  7. #47

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    Fender,

    Your input was great, thanks

    I should have said confusing instead of conflicting. Everybodys input was very helpful and I gained a a lot of knowledge (enought to make me dangerous).

    Is you FOC sensor soldered to your Habro board or did it come sepearte? I think the Hasbro board that has the FOC soldered to the board, like mine, is a bad design. I would really have to smack something pretty hard in order to set if off in its current placement. It lays on its side on the board so any vibration has to be strong enough to not only trigger the spring inside the sensor but it is also vibrating the heck out of the board itself.

    I am still debating whether to de-solder it and place it closer to the base of the blade or to just keep it where it is and move the Hasbro baord close to the base of the blade. I guess once I get everything inside the 1.25" hilt I will see how much room I have and that will probably determine wheter I do it or not.

  8. #48

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    I used the one on the Hasbro board and left it on there. There are a couple of contact points on the bottom of the sensor (the opposite end from the white cap) where you can solder your leads for the corbin board. Test the setup first, because one way you wire it will have the blade pulsing/flashing all the time. If that is the case just switch the two wires. should flash only when the clash goes off (some of the time).

    As far as needing to hit something pretty hard. The more you use it the weaker the sping in the clash sensor will get (to a point) then it will clash better. But it will always work better in your saber then the Hasbro one it came out of. Especially with the Vader model. Its the same board but I practically had to crack the plastic toy case just to get the clash sound to work. But, after I put it in my custim hilt, it worked much better. And it got better with time.
    Darth Fender
    Sith Lord

    You over estimate my FLOWERS!

  9. #49

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    Well thats good news about the spring loosening up..Thanks for th info about the coonection points as well.

    I'm sure if I turned it on and it satrted to do that wacky flashing thing I might pound my head againt my workbench.

    Thanks again for the help!

    DN

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